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Crossmember rotted out

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  • Crossmember rotted out

    Hey guys, my radiator support rotted out where the crossmember attaches. Now my engine is basically supported by my sway bar. Has anyone had this problem? I'm thinking about welding some flat stock to the radiator support that is clean and welding the crossmember straight to that.
    2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
    1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
    1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd


  • #2
    That is a very common spot for these cars to rot out so welding in a new piece of steel is about the best solution

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #3
      I wouldn't weld the cross member to the flat stock, though. Slip the flat in, weld it, then drill a hole to bolt the cross member.
      '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

      '92 Geo Metro XFi

      '87 Suzuki Samurai

      '85 F150, modded 300cid

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      • #4
        Cut the rad support out at the rotted area, then take some appropriate gauge sheetmetal and shape a patch to go across, or use square stock and cut reliefs and bend as needed. Weld it extremely well.
        1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
        Scrapped

        1991 Blue L 5-speed
        daily driver, intermittent project

        1993 rustless wonder
        A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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        • #5
          I've had it break completely on my first, then it almost broke on my second. Both times I uses 2" box tubing and some 1/8" plate to reconstruct it. The last time I did it o measured out all the bolt locations and made tab nuts, drilled the appropriate size holes and smaller holes on each side to weld the tab in place, made it a lot easier to reassembled. The first time I drilled all the way through and used longs bolts.
          Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

          Dennis
          93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
          91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
          93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
          15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
          88 Dakota tow pig

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          • #6
            There are rubber washers in the crossmember bolts, they isolate engine and transmission
            noises like the rubber engine and transmission mounts do. Solids work but they function
            harshly and are noisier than heck. This includes the rubber and sleeve set up for the cross-member bolts. Or get a big radio!!
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #7
              I was able to slip a flat piece inside the rad support. The flat piece has aircraft 'plate nuts" attached in the correct location for the tranny cradle. Got new rubber bushings from dealer (old stock). Used hi grade bolts with steel bushings to simulate the shouldered OEM bolts. The flat piece is bolted in to the strong areas of the rusted rad support. The bolts pick up newly drilled holes and more plate nuts on the flat piece. Has been working well fo several years. Another member used longer bolts that go completely thru the rad support thur an angle iron along the bottom, bridging the rusted section then into the tranny support. Can't find it but it's here somewhere on the forum.

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              • #8
                Just in case anyone is interested in the repair I made, here are some pictures.




                Cut most of the rot out with a plasma cutter and die grinder.




                Bent up and welded in some 16 gauge sheet.



                Welded some nuts to a plate for extra support.



                Sprayed it inside with bed liner, welded a plate to the front and finished it off with some more liner!



                Good as new!
                2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
                1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
                1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

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                • #9
                  Very clean repair.
                  Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

                  Dennis
                  93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
                  91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
                  93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
                  15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
                  88 Dakota tow pig

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Looks like there is a lot gone from that crossmember.

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                    • #11
                      What do you mean? Its rusty but solid.
                      2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
                      1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
                      1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

                      Comment

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