First off, I'm new to the festiva game... So tomorrow I'm buying my second festy, a 91L with 130k and 5 speed for $400... My daily driver/project is a rust free 89L with 80k and a 4 speed....my play is to swap the transmission, ac, etc. Out of the New festy into the one I'm restoring. ... I've never messed with a tranny before so my question is how hard is the swap? Any gaskets I should replace or maintenance that should be done while I'm doing this? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
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Trans swap is pretty straight forward, and not difficult.
If you feel your clutch is in excellent shape, you may keep it, but I would opt for a replacement. Not much in the way of gaskets to replace, but I would replace the axle seals, and also the rear main seal on the back of the engine block while you'er in there.
Good luck!
EDIT: There are 2 wires on the 5 spd trans, and 3 wires on the 4 spd trans. Dont worry about the wire difference, the 3rd wire on the 4 spd is for the shift light on the dash, and is not needed. I think you know when to shift. LOLLast edited by drddan; 07-01-2012, 12:34 PM.Dan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
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Silver 1988 Festiva L
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Originally posted by drddan View PostI think you know when to shift. LOL
The swap is very easy peasy.Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
"Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.
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I didnt know festys had shift lights.When the sun goes down The stars come out, like the ghosts of yesterday So drink 'em down, cause some things never change Baby sing get loud, we ain't gonna mess around When the sun goes down, let me hear you say... This is my town!!!
Hollywood Undead- My Town
Girls look at me like that guy must make pornos!
1988 Ford Festiva- Totaled
1992 Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo-Sold
1986 Ford Mustang GT 5.0
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Okay thanks.... I'm compiling parts that I need to pick up for the trans swap.. So far I have axle seals, and rear main seal (is that what the part is called).... what about output shaft bearings, input shaft seal, output shaft seal, shift shaft seal? Just want to make sure i'm replacing everything I should as I have never done this before and don't wanna skip over anything... Thanks for your help
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Originally posted by johnsonjaco View Postk thanks,,,, what do you mean by zip tie? and marking fuel lines?
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Zip ties are for the spider gears, to keep them from falling. You know the wire ties that "zip" on and you usually cut off? Large on, through the two holes where the axle goes, and the spider gears can't fall, which requires dis-assembly to fix.Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
"Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.
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I used two 6" long pieces of pvc pipe [about 7/8" od] with some duct tape wrapped around the ends to stuff into the side gears and hold them in place.
I'd like to know why it would be better to leave the 4spd in?
Also someone on here had a warning about new axle seals not lasting long unless they are OEM pieces.
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Actually, I have the Festiva kit from Rotunda, with two plastic caps that go in each side to hold them in place. I used to use a piece of broom handle...Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
"Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.
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Originally posted by denguy View PostI used two 6" long pieces of pvc pipe [about 7/8" od] with some duct tape wrapped around the ends to stuff into the side gears and hold them in place.
I'd like to know why it would be better to leave the 4spd in?
Also someone on here had a warning about new axle seals not lasting long unless they are OEM pieces.
that makes the parts for OEM you laugh at how Ford squeezes engineering
to make the most inexpensive production possible to barely meet warranty.
Like any OEM there are aftermarket parts that fit a lot of different cars
and they will be cheap. There will be seals that match OEM specs
and actually look the same besides having the same id-od-w.
Then there are aftermarket parts made that are far superior to OEM.
just sayin.. things change all the time. I just bought a 1929 model A Ford
front pulley , brand new..china!! The quality was better than USA original.
Timken could be made anywhere, and quality definitely varies as does
price. Champion plugs are the best, and they are total junk!! Yes and yes
I have seen none better for under $6 a plug and I have seen cars towed
in because of the same brand plug..things change. Ford OEM ignition modules
worse than any other brand I can think of..true..Now they are about
equal to other oem brands. Sorry about the rant but don't get roped in by
"this is the best"..make sure it still is!!Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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