Intermittent No Start

[syfir]

I have a 93 GL with 97 Aspire motor in it. Occasionally it will not start. When it does not start, there is no fuel coming to the rail while cranking. It has never cut out, it only fails to start. When it's running, there is no noticeable lack of power or engine response. I pulled out the fuel pump, hooked it up directly to a battery and it ran fine. The strainer looked pretty dirty so I changed the strainer and put the pump back in. It started after a long crank and started 3 more times. Not it is cranking but not starting again. This fuel pump is 10 months old and the one before it was replaced after 14 months due to similar symptoms. I suspect there is something else going on here, but am stumped. Any ideas? Thanks.

[iceracerdude]

You want to check the pressure. As far as how new the pump is, it doesn't matter, they can quit after 10 min, or ten years. I've seen a lot of new pumps quit fast. Especially pumps that are usually run on less than a 1/4 tank of gas on a regular basis.
There has to be pressure for the injectors to even open/operate. This is why it harder to jump start a totally dead fuel injected car than an older dead carbed car.
Learn to do your testing in a linear way. Start at one end, prove it out, then go to the next item never guessing at what is "still working". Stay linear------------------------- don't jump ----____^^--- around.

[georgeb]

Jump the fuel pump tester to eliminate the VAF fuel pump switch as the culprit.

[syfir]

There is no Schrader valve on my fuel rail. Is there another way to check the pressure? How do I jump the tester? Just run two wires back from the battery?

[georgeb]

There is no Schrader valve on my fuel rail. Is there another way to check the pressure? How do I jump the tester? Just run two wires back from the battery?

Near the booster there is a empty black T female connector. With a paperclip or sliver of metal jump those two, turn key on and listen underneath for pump running. See if car starts/runs OK. If yes, then you need a new VAF or possible bad VAF connection. Or you could leave the jumper in like I do on one car. If not you must consult the test tree (do search) because it could be either fuel or ign.

[iceracerdude]

The pressure tester kit should come with a "t" you'd put in the line and then you can jump the fuel pump to on at/in the diagnostic module right here:

Place a paper clip between gnd and f/p



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Another thing for you to consider, the fuel pump will shut off OR will not start (not operate) if the computer (ecm) doesn't see "ignition reference pulses"
So if your are having ignition problems, it can create the illusion the fuel pump is failing when in fact the ecm is intentionally shutting it down.
A going bad distrib, or the vaf like was mentioned earlier.
Also consider going to Amazon.com and buy a "used, good condition" haynes ford festiva aspire. They sell starting at 12 cents with $3.99 shipping.
The information on the fuel system alone is worth the price.