Clutch pedal position switch

[Christ]

Can I just get rid of it? What function does it serve related to engine performance?

While diagnosing the carb conditions I'm experiencing, I noticed that if I rest my foot on the clutch pedal at low rpm (accelerating in town), I get a lot of bucking and jerking. Nothing of the sort once over 3k rpm or more than half throttle.

Any way, I'm probably just gonna bypass the switch, but I'd still like to know what the actual problem I'm having is.

[Damkid]

If you by pass the switch, you won't need to push in the clutch to start it, so if you leave it in gear, well, you get the idea :lol: otherwise it shouldn't hurt anything

[2xclutchin]

Resting your foot on the clutch?? Correct me if I'm wrong but would this not be slipping your clutch? I have always practiced that the clutch is either engaged or dis-engaged, and you do not rest on the clutch as this puts it in the inbetween stage, slipping.

I can't see why the switch would be at all important to performance. Although I'm guessing this is the same switch that let's the car know your pushing on the clutch while turning the engine over, so it doesn't start in gear.

[Grey Vw]

Mine doesn't line up anymore so I just left it in there as sorta of a kill switch. So everytime I want to start it I just reach down and hold the button while I crank it.

[Christ]

If you by pass the switch, you won't need to push in the clutch to start it, so if you leave it in gear, well, you get the idea :lol: otherwise it shouldn't hurt anything

I'm talking about the switch at the top of the pedal, not the starter safety switch. (There are two, right?)

[Christ]

Resting your foot on the clutch?? Correct me if I'm wrong but would this not be slipping your clutch? I have always practiced that the clutch is either engaged or dis-engaged, and you do not rest on the clutch as this puts it in the inbetween stage, slipping.

I can't see why the switch would be at all important to performance. Although I'm guessing this is the same switch that let's the car know your pushing on the clutch while turning the engine over, so it doesn't start in gear.

While accelerating, I generally rest my foot on the first half of the pedal free play. The clutch doesn't begin to disengage until about the first inch of the pedal movement.

I usually shift without the clutch, but with the issues this car has been having, i use the clutch in the interest of smoother, quicker acceleration.

The switch at the top of the pedal that is pressed in when the clutch pedal is fully released is the one I'm having problems with. It seems like it affects the ignition timing or a fuel cut solenoid.

[2xclutchin]

Alright, I was just gunna say, slipping your clutch may cause some bucking, haha.

[Christ]

Nah, this is loss of power issues. Most effect when I go to take off from a stop, car wants to stall out like it just cut the ignition altogether unless I keep the revs over 2k and kinda slip it.

[georgeb]

I'm talking about the switch at the top of the pedal, not the starter safety switch. (There are two, right?)

There are 2. The one at at the top is hooked in series with the neutral switch to send some signal to the ECU. Don't think it's necessary.

[Christ]

I think I'm gonna have to eliminate a bunch of crap when I do th e IC setup anyway, so I'm just gonna start going through it now lol

I wont need most of the wiring and vacuum crap or the ECM, and I'll probable "race wire" it.

[bravekozak]

I am going to keep my switch on the clutch pedal to cut off the cruise control signal if the clutch is depressed, or the brake is applied. Is this what is required for cruise control on a standard transmission vehicle?

I too am trashing the ECU and all unecessary wiring.

[Movin]

The ECU turns off some emission solenoids when you press the clutch. It also bumps
the idle speed and pops the timing up a bit . If you are going non computer you will
need to address the full timing curve in the distributor and use a weber or holley-
weber carb. You might as well get headers, a performance cam and bump up the
compression while you are at it. Course you would want the best head porting...

[Christ]

The ECU turns off some emission solenoids when you press the clutch. It also bumps
the idle speed and pops the timing up a bit . If you are going non computer you will
need to address the full timing curve in the distributor and use a weber or holley-
weber carb. You might as well get headers, a performance cam and bump up the
compression while you are at it. Course you would want the best head porting...

Good thing I don't have to worry about this with vacuum advance.

I will have to figure out how to get the full vacuum signal to the distributor though, using individual carbs. Probably gonna have to use 1/4" vacuum line hooked to a small reservoir to keep the timing from bouncing all over the place, or find a dizzy that's mech advance only.