BP/G capri jackshaft troubles

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93 protege bp, 91 capri xr2 g series, 91 capri xr2 jackshaft, and this is my problem, the pictures speak for themselves. From what I've been reading and seeing, the problems with other people not lining up are due to the clocking of the transmission, not the length of the axel, is this the difference between the bp and b6 block length, and I need the EGT jackshaft, or what's going on here?

please click the links and help me out here, trying to stay compliant with all the rules and the upload feature won't work for me..I can't even do the thumbnail thing, can't upload from my HD or from photobucket links to this site.

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/G%20series%20Transmission%20and%20MFactory%20differential/SAM_0313.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/G%20series%20Transmission%20and%20MFactory%20differential/SAM_0315.jpg

[xaero_81]

This has always been a problem. You need to modify the bracket on the jackshaft to make it to the holes.

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ok thanks, someone said it was clocked differently, which I thought meant the differential was positioned lower and further inward toward the crankshaft, which is why a few people shimmed the top bolt on the bracket and not the lower ones.

[Damkid]

The Hydro clutch G series are clocked differently, when you use a cable G series on a BP, you just gotta extend the mounting holes on the int shaft

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alright, is that my only option here, shave a little off the top bolt hole (to clear the oil cooler) and weld an extension for the two front bolts, then drill a new hole for the rear bolt hole? There aren't any stock parts I could use to make this right?

jackshaft pushed in all the way, hits the oil cooler

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/G%20series%20Transmission%20and%20MFactory%20differential/SAM_0316.jpg

jackshaft pushed in all the way, in a bind from being forced under the cooler.

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/1994%20Ford%20Aspire/G%20series%20Transmission%20and%20MFactory%20differential/SAM_0317.jpg

[Damkid]

Unfortunately no stock parts to make it a bolt in thing, gotta either make a custom mounting plate, or modify the int shaft

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gotcha, I stuck the rio axel I have in the passenger spindle, measured the distance between for the diff (6 1/2"), then eyeballed the differential (6 1/2") so I might end up going that route for the sake of ease right now.

it's going to be a tight fit right now, the axels/cv's were just loose, but also once the weight of the engine hits the chassis it'll drop the front end and let the cv's extend a bit further, so I think it might be alright if I can get the transmission mounts right.

I know torque steer is a primary concern, but at the moment I just want the thing to move, later I can do different custom mounts and whatnot if necessary...when the turbo goes on.

[Rocketman]

Here's what you'll need to do:



I cut out the stock iron, welded in a steel plate & drilled for the two bolts

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yea there it is, thanks for the pic rocketman! I'll stick it back on there and get a measurement of how far over those bolt holes need placed center to center, maybe I can get that done in the meantime while I'm getting $ together for the turbo stuff, those external wastegates aren't cheap!...the good ones anyway.

[Maxtiva]

This is what I did on my car

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that's pretty good too, thanks for the ideas! when it comes to custom stuff, it's ok to copy other peoples work, just make sure you copy the best!