88 carby not starting

[sandy]

I have a carby Festiva that won't start. I have changed the coil and was getting spark there. Now I am not getting any power at the pump or coil. I have the jumper wires still on the connections under the hood. (not fusable links)

I have changed the fuel filter again to rule that out. I also have removed the jumper wires on the fusable link area and cleaned those.

What am I missing? I am trying to by troubleshoot everything I can before considering a new fuel pump.

[georgeb]

You need to narrow it down between spark or fuel. Get a can of starting fluid. Also there is no elec pump on an '88 unless it's aftermarket.

[sandy]

We poured some fuel in the carb and it still didn't start. So the problem I have right now is no spark. Suggestions?

[drddan]

1st ....check to see if the timing belt is good by pulling the disty cap and see if the rotor turns while engine is cranked.
Rotor turns = good belt
No turn = broken belt

Next pull the #1 Spark plug wire, hold close to plug and crank
No spark = the module in the disty is bad
Replace module


You can try another known good disty and see if it starts. This will tell you beyond the shadow of a doubt.

[sandy]

Pulled the rotor cap and the disti is turning. So the belt is good.

I pulled the plug wire off plug #1 and it didn't spark. (I assume the spark plug closest to the cap is #1.)

I also pulled the wire off the top of the coil and held it close... It didn't spark there either.

[drddan]

It doesnt matter, but #1 is on pass side of motor.

Do you have access to another known good distributor? Swap it, and see if it starts.
99.9% of the time with the 88-89 carby's, it is the module, inside the disty, under the cap. A halfmoon shaped black plastic piece with a couple wires attached to it. 2 screws hold it in place. You can buy just the module on ebay for about $40-$50.
or hit the junkyard and get another disty. Around $30?

New /rebuilt disty's are $150-$200, at part stores, and for a reason beyond me, they charge the same for buying just the module?!

[Festy46]

Look closely at the spot where the wires come out of the distributor housing and make sure the insulation hasn't been broken causing a short. If those wires are ok, then take a piece of insulated wire and make a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the (+) side of the coil and check for spark like you did before. This will rule out any chance of bad wiring or defective ignition switch. If still no spark, then it is probably the module in the distributor. If you are going to get a module, wait until you have the new one before you remove the old one. There are some little tabs that plug into the distributor that you should be aware of. Don't start prying on the old one until you can look at the new one to see how the old one is plugged in. You won't get new module to distributor wires with a new module so be careful when you remove the wire leads and keep track of where each one connects to the module.

[WmWatt]

You can take the iginition cotrol module out of the distributor and get it tested for free at some auto parts shops. If ti needs replacment shop around for teh best price. They are all made by one manufacuter in Japan but retail prices can vary in North America by 100%.

[FestYboy]

lets start (pardon the pun) with the easy stuff...

1. do you have power to the coil?
2. do you have continuity on both windings
3. remove the dizzy cap and hose the inside out with brake clean (looking to have nothing but clear fluid comming back out). a dirty pickup will cause lack of signal to the ignition modual and a false negative for your IM test.

[sandy]

1. do you have power to the coil? Power comes from the disti cap right? If so.. NO.

2. do you have continuity on both windings? Not sure

3. remove the dizzy cap and hose the inside out with brake clean (looking to have nothing but clear fluid comming back out). a dirty pickup will cause lack of signal to the ignition modual and a false negative for your IM test. --- I replaced the cap today since it was almost a year old.

Still not getting fire. It turns over, but won't run. Britstiva and me and going to a jy this weekend to get a distributor.

Keep those suggestions coming! I've tried them all except the jumper wire from the positive battery terminal.

[Britstiva]

I've been trying to help him out when I can.... but I'm not familiar with carbys at all. You might as well blind fold me and tell me to read chinese.

[KingFish]

Dr.D is proficient in Chinese. He gave great advice about the module. I have sold a few myself when I worked for the McParts stores. Junk yard dizzy is your best bet.

[FestYboy]

1. do you have power to the coil? Power comes from the disti cap right? If so.. NO.

2. do you have continuity on both windings? Not sure

3. remove the dizzy cap and hose the inside out with brake clean (looking to have nothing but clear fluid comming back out). a dirty pickup will cause lack of signal to the ignition modual and a false negative for your IM test. --- I replaced the cap today since it was almost a year old.

Still not getting fire. It turns over, but won't run. Britstiva and me and going to a jy this weekend to get a distributor.

Keep those suggestions coming! I've tried them all except the jumper wire from the positive battery terminal.

power to coil is switched from the ignition switch straight from battery.

sorry, i should have specified to hose down the inside of the dizzy, not the cap.

[sandy]

It was the coil! It was bad... but I got another one. Thank you guys for all the suggestions!! We tried them all and had no luck.

I'm back on the road now and getting ready for Madness 6!!

[FestYboy]

ta-DAAA!!!