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Outer tie rod removal

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  • Outer tie rod removal

    I'm working on pulling the hub from the car so I can replace the wheel bearings, but I'm stuck at removing the outer tie rod end. That thing just WILL NOT BUDGE, and I don't want to break it because it's still firm. I already made the boot come a bit loose with a remover fork, but it's just not wanting to come out. Tried hitting it on the side with a hammer, did nothing.

    Any ideas?

  • #2
    Kind of cheesy but you can loosen the adjustment nut and unscrew the tie rod from it. 12mm rt hand threads.

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    • #3
      I was trying to avoid messing with the adjustment nut to keep the alignment in place.

      BUT!

      I finally got it off. Went to AutoZone and rented a Pitman Arm Puller, and it came off super easy. It's a press-type tool. Should have gotten it the first time, but I didn't know about it until I started looking up how-tos.

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      • #4
        I read that it can be tapped with hammer in the right spot. If someone with a wehell off their car can kindly take a picture and circle this area in psintbrush that will help the "lights on" guys. I have seen this issue brought up twice this month. A pulled works but thoseforks and other tools can cause damage too
        Last edited by getnpsi; 09-18-2012, 12:25 PM.
        1993 GL 5 speed

        It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

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        • #5
          Here's the video I took after I got the hub out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP8zPGP_t1Y

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          • #6
            The ball joint pinch bolt looks incorrect. Should not be loose in bore. Also, who has been/will be doing the bearing job?

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            • #7
              5000 miles out of the bearings!? Whoever did the bearings did not do them right!
              On top of that, whoever did the bearings may have switched the preload shims, and why you are having to get new bearings now!
              That is a no-no!!! The shims are specific to each hub and cannot be switched!

              There are write-ups about the shims/hubs here. Find them and learn about the hub/bearing/shim set-up.
              Last edited by drddan; 09-18-2012, 02:04 PM.
              Dan




              Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

              Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

              I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

              R.I.P.
              Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
              Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
              Silver 1988 Festiva L

              My Music!
              http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647

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              • #8
                The bearings were cheap Valucraft ones. The other side has Timken bearings, and the local tire shop did the installation with new Timken bearings and seals.

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                • #9
                  Well, that could be the problem. ALWAYS use Timken!

                  Aint much of a value, if you have to change them again after 5000 miles.
                  Last edited by drddan; 09-18-2012, 02:08 PM.
                  Dan




                  Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

                  Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

                  I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

                  R.I.P.
                  Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
                  Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
                  Silver 1988 Festiva L

                  My Music!
                  http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Cani Lupine View Post
                    The bearings were cheap Valucraft ones. The other side has Timken bearings, and the local tire shop did the installation with new Timken bearings and seals.
                    There have been a lot of horror stories about having the bearings done at shops. Most have no idea about the spacing shims, and will throw them away.
                    Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                    Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                    "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                    • #11
                      Dealing with front wheel bearings has to be the Achilles tendon, and/or become rite of passage, for DIYs that 'buy into' the humble prestige of actually owning a Ford Festiva. Done right they last the life a car, but done improperly they cause all manner of inconvenience on a regular basis.

                      There are specific presses for 'popping' tie rod ends and this saves wrecking the boots from having to use a 'pickle fork' to do the same thing. But from what I can see most of us are impatient though and seem to think new tie rods are in order anyway. Along with better wheels, bigger motor and upgrade suspension and brakes!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by getnpsi View Post
                        I read that it can be tapped with hammer in the right spot. If someone with a wehell off their car can kindly take a picture and circle this area in psintbrush that will help the "lights on" guys. I have seen this issue brought up twice this month. A pulled works but thoseforks and other tools can cause damage too
                        The right spot to tap it is a raised ridge. It's obvious what I mean, when you look at it. Works every time for me.
                        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                        Disaster preparedness

                        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                        • #13
                          I had to do this when replacing my axle seal, and it is infuriating if you dont have a trick up your sleeve. I always ran a big, sturdy flathead screwdriver over the top of a jackstand nearly the same height (on passenger side, placed left of the tie rod end), and underneath the tie rod where the tie rod end screws to the inner tie rod. I use a jackstand because the steering knuckle is not long enough to set anything on top of it without hitting the rotor. Apply a constant downward pressure on the screwdriver, and give that steering knuckle a good ol whack. It's stunning how it just jumps out of there.
                          - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                          - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                          - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                          - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                          - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                          - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


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                          • #14
                            Assuming you have the steering wheel turned all the way to the left already of course
                            - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                            - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                            - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                            - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                            - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                            - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


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                            • #15
                              When Arty and I do the bearing video this year, we really need to cover this as well....
                              Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                              Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                              "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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