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  • Rack and Pinion Replacement

    I was checking my steering components today and noticed quite a bit of play at the rack and pinion. I concluded this when I grabbed the inner tie rod and wiggled it around. There has been a slight shake in the sterring wheel for awhile. The inner and outer tie rods are new. I decided to replace the R&P. My manual makes it seem like you just unbolt a few things and replace for installation. It did say that I needed to mark where the column and pinion line or something to that effect. Upon further review online, it seems a lot more than just that. The boots had rotted off a long time ago and weren't on it when I bought it several months ago. So the rack is pretty dirty.

    Any tips or advice when replacing?

  • #2
    I'd send the unit your going to use for the replacement to eurotiva for a rebuild, so your not going to be doing this again in a year or so.
    '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
    '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
    '92 Aqua parts Car
    '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
    '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

    "Your God of repentance will not save you.
    Your holy ghost will not save you.
    Your God plutonium will not save you.
    In fact...
    ...You will not be saved!"

    Prince of Darkness -1987

    Comment


    • #3
      The easiest way to get it out is undo the flex joint inside the car. Which is what the manual is telling you to mark (there is a solid spline, so realistically they should only go on 1 way), but i've seen some crazy fixes. Then the 2 inner tie rods, then the 2 mounts on the firewall. It then goes slightly towards the drivers side until the passenger side clears and can come down or up and out.

      The biggest pain is doing it without cutting or tearing the rubber boot that protects the u-joints that connect it to the steering wheel.

      Which rack do you have? There are 2 different ones.

      1st is smooth all the way from the steering shaft to the pass side (carb models)

      2nd is cast Aluminum and has ribs from one side to the other (efi models)

      They are interchangable, EXCEPT for the inner tie rods and the rack to body mounts.

      I have a few here that are already rebuilt.

      PM me and we'll get you fixed up.
      -Greg
      Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
      BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
      Redneck Engineer
      FOTY - '09
      5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

      Comment


      • #4
        Why would I need to have a new (remanufactured) rack and pinion rebuilt?

        I believe the rack on my car is the one with ribs on either side.

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        • #5
          ^^they probably assumed you would be getting a used one to install

          1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
          1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
          2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

          1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

          If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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          • #6
            What could go wrong if you just eliminate that damn ujoint boot?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by denguy View Post
              What could go wrong if you just eliminate that damn ujoint boot?
              The worst I have seen so far.
              No boot on joint area under dash, stereo power wire got caught up in it, guy made a nice sharp turn, wound the wire up in the column, it shorted out and melted down most of the wiring harness.
              Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
              1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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              • #8
                Originally posted by clay124 View Post
                Why would I need to have a new (remanufactured) rack and pinion rebuilt?
                Originally posted by Damkid View Post
                ^^they probably assumed you would be getting a used one to install
                That's it!
                You never said in your post it was a re-manufactured unit!
                You should be fine!
                '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                '92 Aqua parts Car
                '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                Your holy ghost will not save you.
                Your God plutonium will not save you.
                In fact...
                ...You will not be saved!"

                Prince of Darkness -1987

                Comment


                • #9
                  Now I'm on the same page haha

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Try to leave the rubber boot. If you get rid of it, stuff will lose it grease and pickup road grime. Eventually leading to failure. Losing steering or brakes is ALWAYS bad
                    -Greg
                    Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                    BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                    Redneck Engineer
                    FOTY - '09
                    5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Okay, I have my remanufactured rack and pinion, but when i grab the inner tie rods on both sides, there is play in the rack. Is there supposed to be a small amount of play? Granted, there doesn't seem to be as much play on the new one as opposed to the one still on the car.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Some play is ok, the more play the more your car will wander when you drive.
                        -Greg
                        Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                        BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                        Redneck Engineer
                        FOTY - '09
                        5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I know it's a reman part but I still paid $200 for it and I feel as though there shouldn't be any play at all. This is my first time dealing with a rack and pinion so I can't compare it with any others.

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                          • #14
                            When i rebuild them I make them to where there is no play. But i make each bushing to fit each rack specifically.
                            -Greg
                            Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
                            BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
                            Redneck Engineer
                            FOTY - '09
                            5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Can the rubber boot be removed? I don't see how to get the rack out without removing it

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