AC Conversion to 134A

[1990new]

I've been searching but didn't find an answer to a question about this.
Need comments from someone that has done this successfully.
The R12 has been evacuated from my system. I have a manifold set and a vaccum pump and I have the 134A oil charge and refrigerant.

My system was not contaminated and the compressor is still good.
My understanding is that I will need to flush out the system and replace the expansion valve, o rings and dryer/accumulator before I do the vacuum and recharge with the 134a.

My questions:
Are there different types of dryer/accumulators for R12 vs 134A?
What about the expansion valve?

Recommendations on best place to buy parts?

[FestYboy]

no need to change the valve, just the dryer (stock) and flush it, with new seals anywhere you disturbed any (like at the dryer and compressor).

also take whatever the carge value is listed for the system and multiply by 0.83 for the 134a conversion.

[1990new]

no need to change the valve, just the dryer (stock) and flush it, with new seals anywhere you disturbed any (like at the dryer and compressor).

also take whatever the carge value is listed for the system and multiply by 0.83 for the 134a conversion.

Sorry about not getting back to you sooner.....thanks for the tip..
I did lots more research and in the end I decided to not open the system and just added a can of the 134A with compatible esther oil to the system. And so far it is working great (4 days ago) staying super cool. Later if the system fails and I need to open it up I will proceed with replacing the other components and the compressor if it gets eaten up.

[MasterTec]

I didn't even bother to flush mine. I'm still rocking the original drier! It worked well with R134a for about two years until it started leaking.

Some of the compressor seals had broken. I resealed the compressor and recharged it with R134a and it worked great the rest of the summer. I still didn't bother to change the drier.

I can tell you from experience that new driers aren't so critical with R134a as it's not as sensitive to moisture as R12 was.

I've heard from some sources (although I haven't been able to verify this myself) that in some cases it's better to NOT flush the system when converting it over. Apparently the old mineral oil coats the inside of the hoses helping to keep them from leaking the new refrigerant (R134a has smaller molecules than R12). Apparently if you flush the system it dissolves this coating and can allow refrigerant to seep out through the hoses.

Again, I haven't verified this myself but it makes sense. I once owned an '88 Crown Vic and after converting it (doing it correctly with a new drier, new seals, and a flush) I never could get it to work properly... until I installed an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser. But this isn't an issue with the festy as its compressor is about three times the size of the radiator! Plus its electric fan can move some air!

[1990new]

I didn't even bother to flush mine. I'm still rocking the original drier! It worked well with R134a for about two years until it started leaking.

Some of the compressor seals had broken. I resealed the compressor and recharged it with R134a and it worked great the rest of the summer. I still didn't bother to change the drier.

I can tell you from experience that new driers aren't so critical with R134a as it's not as sensitive to moisture as R12 was.

I've heard from some sources (although I haven't been able to verify this myself) that in some cases it's better to NOT flush the system when converting it over. Apparently the old mineral oil coats the inside of the hoses helping to keep them from leaking the new refrigerant (R134a has smaller molecules than R12). Apparently if you flush the system it dissolves this coating and can allow refrigerant to seep out through the hoses.

Again, I haven't verified this myself but it makes sense. I once owned an '88 Crown Vic and after converting it (doing it correctly with a new drier, new seals, and a flush) I never could get it to work properly... until I installed an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser. But this isn't an issue with the festy as its compressor is about three times the size of the radiator! Plus its electric fan can move some air!

Thanks for you detailed reply.
Did exactly as you said..only put 13oz (which included the polyoil) of 134a in and it is colder than ever.
Thanks for you detailed reply.

[1990new]

I'm reviving this thread because I now have detected a leak at one of the Accumulator/Drier connections where the 134a charge is slowly leaking.
I added about 8 ounces of 134a and it's blowing cold again, but I want to get a new Accumulator/Drier and then fix the leak.

Problem is that I am having a hard time finding the exact accumulator/drier to order.
I ordered one last year from Rockauto and it would not fit because the threaded male connector ports were larger than my connection line fittings.

The ones listed at most of the parts sites for 90-93 factory air are silver colored and have only holes at the top with no threaded male connection points.

The ones that look like mine say they fit 88-89 AC systems (but they look like mine). All three of my festivas with factor air have the 90 degree oriented male connection points on the black colored accumulator/driers and they fit in holder on the side of the condenser.

Has anyone ordered an accumulator/drier for their 90-93 factory air Festiva that fits right out of the box? If so what is the part number you ordered?

[bravekozak]

Funny you should ask. I just happen to have an unused aftermarket receiver/drier for sale. (cheap). 90 degree male ports that are the correct size for the Festiva A/C lines. I bought it from UAC in Texas.
The reason why I am selling it, is because I bought an NOS one for big bucks.

The price on the E8BZ-19559-A is $38.31 Yes, I do accept paypal. If there is anything else, please let me know. David Hinchliffe Jr.
Parts International
www.partsinternational.com
www.nospartswarehouse.com
888-727-0418
972-241-8730
972-241-0990 (fax)

[1990new]

Funny you should ask. I have an unused aftermarket accumulaotor/drier for sale.
The reason why I am selling it, is because I bought an NOS one for big bucks.

Your link gave me a 404 and no picture. (It works now)

Been doing some more research on these and leaned the difference between the accumulator/drier and receiver/drier.
On the Festiva, we actually have a receiver/drier which is on the high pressure side and receives liquid refrigerant from the condenser.
This link has some good info on them:
http://www.meicorporation.com/pdfs/Driers09.pdf

If the one you have will work on my system, I'll buy it from you. What size are the male connectors?

[bravekozak]

I have found what I have been searching for.
SANTECH® - A/C O-Ring Kit

1997 Mazda B-Series

$19.63 shipped. Expensive!
All I know is the general O-ring kit from Ford Parts does not have the correct size for the drier lines.

[1990new]

I have found what I have been searching for.
SANTECH® - A/C O-Ring Kit

1997 Mazda B-Series

$19.63 shipped. Expensive!
All I know is the general O-ring kit from Ford Parts does not have the correct size for the drier lines.

I was able to find all the correct size o-rings I needed to connect my AC lines in the 205 piece HNBR O-Ring assortment from Harbor Freight (item 67644).
They are currently 9.99 at Harbor Freight.

[MasterTec]

These are confusing because there are Factory Installed and Dealer Installed a/c systems, and both use slightly different parts which are for the most part not interchangeable.

[1990new]

I was able to find all the correct size o-rings I needed to connect my AC lines in the 205 piece HNBR O-Ring assortment from Harbor Freight (item 67644).
They are currently 9.99 at Harbor Freight.

Forget this.... Don't use the Harbor Freight O-Rings on your AC system. After a while they all began to leak.

Get the SANTECH set recommended by bravekozak instead.