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  • New axle running hot

    I replace the drivers side drive axle with a reman this past weekend. At the same time I also replaced the wheels bearings, seals, and transmission output shaft seal. After getting everything put back together, spindle rotation was a little too tight in my opinion but not something I was concerned about. After taking it for a test drive, I couldnt believe what an improvement in noise and vibration. The old axle sounded like a popcorn machine when making right hand turns; clicking and snapping. Along with the bearing noise. Another thing I noticed was that after a 20 mile drive, the CV housing next to the outer boot is very warm to the touch. And the spindle housing is slightly warmer than the other side of the car. The passenger side axle is not warm at all. SO, my question is, Is this build up of heat in a new CV joint normal? Or is there another problem? One thing I am doing now is replacing the bearing spacer with one the next size bigger. Opinions???

  • #2
    Is the wheel hot too?
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    '92 Festiva L M/T
    '93 Festiva GL A/T

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    • #3
      I think you answered your own question when you said you're going for a thicker spacer. Your bearings are too tight and transferring their heat to the cv hub.
      You gonna race that thing?
      http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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      • #4
        The bearing spacers are quite specific, they pre-load the bearings. Do a search for bearing replacement and proper setup proceedure.
        1989 Carby L: Stock. Slow.
        1998 Mustang Cobra: ported heads, cams, longtubes, 4.30 gears
        2016 Focus ST: daily driven go-kart

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        • #5
          After putting everything back together it's nromal for the rotation to feel a little tight. After you put the car back on the ground and and move it a bit the weight of the car seats the bearings and the stiffness goes away. I mistook braking heat on my car for bearing heat but you say only one side feels warm. I'd check the brake pads on that side to make sure they are sliding on the pins okay and not sticking and rubbing on the rotor. If the pads are sticking the pins can be cleaned and lubricated on the car. If you are concerned about friction in the CV joint you can pry up the bands, slide the rubber boot up the shaft, and take a look at the bearings. You can repack the CV bearings with grease and replace the rubber boot. Moving the rubber boot would invalidate your warranty if they find out.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            There is no issue with the brakes. I dont buy the heat transfer from the bearings in this case since the spindle is only slightly warm and the CV housing is very warm. There is not a noticeable heat buildup in the rim either. Is there is break in period for a new axle? I am going up 1 size in spacer width as a precaution. I dont have available an inch pound torque wrench to measure preload. After putting 40 miles on, the spindle rotates much easier, closer to what I would call normal. I dont think a new CV joint should have to be relubed. Any more input?? Really appreciate your thoughts.
            Last edited by 90fomoco; 10-11-2012, 01:40 PM.

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            • #7
              It's possible, but not probable that the factory never put grease in cv joint. The factory parts are only as good as the guys building them. I bought a factory rebuilt short block one time and one of the rod bolts was never torqued. I didn't check the factory's work and installed the engine. A few miles later there was a hole in the block and an unscrewed rod bolt nut laying in the bottom of the oil pan.
              You gonna race that thing?
              http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 90fomoco View Post
                There is no issue with the brakes. I dont buy the heat transfer from the bearings in this case since the spindle is only slightly warm and the CV housing is very warm. There is not a noticeable heat buildup in the rim either. Is there is break in period for a new axle? I am going up 1 size in spacer width as a precaution. I dont have available an inch pound torque wrench to measure preload. After putting 40 miles on, the spindle rotates much easier, closer to what I would call normal. I dont think a new CV joint should have to be relubed. Any more input?? Really appreciate your thoughts.
                DON'T go up in the size of the spacer!

                When the hubs were being bored out, the bit used would gradually wear down, and from what I heard, was not accounted for originally. So, using the different sized spacers made up the difference. Moving up the size of spacer is a VERY bad idea, unless you can go through the precise preload procedure.
                Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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