Compression Tests & Oil Leaks

[Oren09]

I've been working on my new acquisition.

There is light smoke and oil droplets coming out of the exhaust.

So I did a compression check.
Dry & cold
1. 120psi
2. <20psi (the gauge starts numbers at 30 and the needle barely moved)
3. 120psi
4. 115psi

The engine has about 283,000 miles.

Wet test
1. 180psi
2. 80psi
3. 170psi
4. 170psi

I replaced the cylinder head a few months ago when the camshaft seized up. I put on an Aspire head and everything on it looked good at time of install.
There are no signs of a blown head gasket. So, my assumption is worn piston rings.
Since I put some oil in the cylinders for the wet test, I put the plugs back in and drove it hard for a few miles. It stopped smoking fairly quick but I kept going to get the engine nice and hot. I'm hoping maybe some rings are just stuck.

I'll do another compression check after work just for kicks to see if there is any improvement.

Another thing. Massive oil leak. It's been leaking bad but it seems to be getting worse. I drove maybe 5 miles and when I got back EVERYTHING on the passenger side of the car was dripping with oil.

I'm guessing front crank seal? The leak is so bad the alternator hasn't put out a charge in months.









I'm sure this engine is about dead, but any ideas or suggestions before I rip it out?

[Aaronbrook37]

With a leak that size, I'd say check your oil pan for sure. I had something very similar (oil on hood, all over engine bay, and coating alternator) and thought it was a couple seals for sure, but really it was just the rubber gasket on the oil pan needing some re-torquing and RTV sealant. As for your compression... how tight are your head bolts? Did you get em torqued in the right order and to specifications?

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t5489889-1998_ford_festiva_head_bolt

[zoom zoom]

Pic looks like a front main seal...bad rings...time for a bp

[WmWatt]

I'd check the valves on #2 for leakage. Could be carbon buildup. I don't know if the wet/dry difference on the other cylinders is bad. The low variation across the other three is good.

[scitzz]

Worn or sticking rings are indicated. If the car has sat for a while, it could just be sticking rings.

Squirt a fair bit of PB blaster into each cylinder, and let it sit for a while, at least overnight. Blow it all out by turning the engine over by key, install the plugs, run it for a good while, then test again. If those numbers start coming up, you will know that you might be in luck.

[Oren09]

I torqued the head bolts in two stages in the correct order.

I'm sure it's worn rings at least. I'll try the PB blaster overnight and check for improvement.

[WmWatt]

When farm vehicles sit over winter they remove the spark plugs and put some sort of sovent into each cyclinder, eg deisel fuel, before starting the engine.

[Oren09]

The highest I can get on cylinder number 2 is about 60-70PSI.
And the car is still smoking.

Anyone have a B6T they want to sell?

[FestYboy]

look for a burnt exhaust valve...

[Oren09]

How do I check for that?
I don't even know what it would look like with the head off.

[WmWatt]

If you remove the valve cover and turn it over you should see black soot above the offending exhaust valve where exhaust gas has been leaking out of the cylinder around the valve.