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Electrical problem / Starter S-terminal no-go / need guidance

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  • Electrical problem / Starter S-terminal no-go / need guidance

    I don't have a test light or another person to try to turn on/off the car to figure out the issue. I will be buying a test light soon. Last night I studied over the EVTM and today used it to try troubleshooting the start/ignition circuit. It's interesting because there's no troubleshoot for "no crank".

    I'm suspecting battery, ignition wiring cluster, bad connection somewhere, possibly starter but doubtful imo.

    Some background.. I've never had a starting issue or really any issue other than a fuel pump go bad. About a year ago I rebuilt a 1st gen B6, got it installed and everything was good except compression from pitting in the cylinder bores, which I expected since the pistons were rust-bonded to the engine. Fun rebuild none-the-less. I later found another b6 tow behind tracer, bought that engine because the car was banged up pretty good but the engine bay was pretty clean, figured it should be a good swap. A few months ago I got it installed and had some help from Skeeter but when we were ready to fire it wouldn't crank. We jumped it and got it running and ever since it has had an on/off issue with the starter. Sometimes it'll crank and most of the time it won't even pop the drive.

    The few weeks before FM6 I was trying to make sure to drive it as much as possible to figure out if there were any issues. It would start sometimes and not start other times. Battery has always been strong, or so it's tested with the tester I have. Before FM6 it was 12.6-13+ volts and around 600 amps after 30+ minute drive to Skeeter's and it started at least 2-3 times that night. After FM6 I haven't driven it because I don't trust it. Tonight it was 12.7 volts and 400+ amp after a 1-2 minute drive and sitting at least an hour before checking. I might take the battery over to Advance and get it checked tomorrow.

    I drove the car to Raleigh for FM6 and made it almost all the way back without any issues. It didn't start that morning, but started at least 6 consecutive times until we got back up to the border and we had to push start it twice after and took us a lot longer to get home than we would have liked. About an hour away from home it wouldn't restart and started having an overheating issue and when we were about 2 miles away from home we could hear the fuel relay clicking off/on. Downshifting seemed to negate the issue.

    I've got 2 more starters and bench tested all 3, they all worked yesterday.
    I've jumpered from battery + to S-terminal on the starter I switched in and it pops the drive in the car, yesterday.
    I've gone through all the connectors by the battery and spritzed a touch of wd40 to make sure I had solid connections. While doing all of this I tried starting the car in between checking each connection to see if I could pin point it. No joy.
    Then.. at one point, with ignition "on" the main relay would "whir" erratically. It started doing this after cleaning the fusible link box and underneath wiring and getting the starter to click faster like it was getting a little better connection. It hasn't done it since though..
    Tonight I was talking to my dad (around 7:45) and I tried laying a screwdriver over from the battery cable on the solenoid to the S-terminal, it sparked, something inside the car started to humm (fuel pump maybe?) and the fan came on. The starter did nothing after the initial spark.

    I'm saying all this crazy stuff so maybe it will help?? It doesn't make sense because once the car is bump started.. it runs and drives. I think there's an issue with the thermostat but other than that it drove great to Raleigh and most of the way back. I'm frustrated but I need to figure it out. I was trying to figure it out before this crazy FrankenSANDY storm..

    any and all help is greatly appreciated.
    Walth

    Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
    http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

  • #2
    Electrical problem / Starter S-terminal no-go / need guidance

    Could be corrosion at the starter where the thick wire bolts to the starter, I've had that happen many times lol

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

    Comment


    • #3
      Great point! I forgot to add that. Skeeter and I cleaned it before FM6, it was loose and slightly corroded and the top cover was flipped the wrong way. But now I get the same voltage on the starter bolt as I do the battery. So that shouldn't be the issue anymore.

      and I'll be blowing out all the wd40 with compressed air in a couple days
      Walth

      Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

      Comment


      • #4
        Electrical problem / Starter S-terminal no-go / need guidance

        I've had voltage on the bolt itself before too but still had to clean the connection

        If there's a weak connection it'll show the right voltage in the right spots, but if that weak connection can't handle the full current in order to crank the engine over, you'll get the symptoms you have..... I'm not saying this is your problem but could be worth triple checking

        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

        Comment


        • #5
          If it will consistently crank jumping the 2 starter terminals then the wiring, connections, ign sw, clutch pedal sw and MAIN fuse link need to be checked. I would start with jumping the clutch switch.

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          • #6
            I am not sure it applies in this case, but if I suspect a bad ground, I will use a jumper cable and attach it to ground on the battery and ground on the engine. Ground wires can have corrosion into the cable, and start causing problems. If the car starts with a good ground, ie, jumper cable in place, then it is time to replace the ground wire.
            Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
            Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
            "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

            Comment


            • #7
              scitzz, georgeb.. you guys were right on. Passenger strut tower ground was rusty bolt and dirty connector. brushed it off, wiped it clean, anti-seize.

              from what I'm starting to understand about the clutch switch.. it's a lot more important than just a flimsy safety deal. It powers the fuel circuit and will keep your car from running. crazy. And I believe that might be related to the fuel cutting in and out.

              the festiva lives again.. good thing too because a couple nights ago I bought a battery and I was really peev'd when it didn't start with the new battery. I bought a battery because the car started using a jump. I really don't remember but I might have jumped with the negative connected to the engine behind the disty tho.. which would make sense as to why it started but didn't with a new battery. lol

              thanks again guys
              Walth

              Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
              http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

              Comment


              • #8
                Cool! Good to hear!
                Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

                Comment

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