My 1988 Fetsiva turns over but won't start. Initally the car would start and idle for a few minutes then die suddenly. No stumbling or sputtering. This happened a few times and now the engine turns over easliy but won't start at all. So far I have replaced the fuel and air filters, mechanical fuel pump and distributor. I recently put in a new battery and replaced the ignition wire from the coil to distributor. Please help.
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88 Festiva turns over, won't start
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88 Festiva turns over, won't start
The garage section is for build threads, not repair help questions
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1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
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If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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You have a carbed then (1988 ).
Did you check for spark at the plugs?
Carb getting fuel?
Messed with the choke at all?
One or two folks here in the past have noted a weird kink in the fuel hose that comes and goes. Check fuel lines for kinks, etc.
How's your gas quality? Fresh?
This is all I can think of right now. I did have a carby '89 that slowly began "not running." Turned out when I cut the front end off I found the original fuel filter, dated 1989! The shop I had asked to check and replace it hadn't! I bet that was my problem. But that's not your problem here.
KarlLast edited by Safety Guy; 11-04-2012, 05:24 PM.'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
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start with making sure you have power at the coil, then when you DO have power at the coil, remove the dizzy cap and inspect for oil contamination. if you see oil in the DISTRIBUTOR, hose it out with brake clean, allow to dry and put it all back together. fire it up or replace the dizzy. oil contamination has been the cause for no start conditions frequently. bad pick-up coils can happen and ignition moduals do go bad but it's more rare than the oil issue.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Just tried to use starting fluid again but no start just crank. Checked for any loose or dirty elctrical connections. I tried cleaning oil from out of the dizzy early in this process but no go. Dizzy is now replaced, no go. I also just checked for spark by taking out the number 1 spark plug, inserting into ignition wire and grounding to the engine block. Got no spark. The end of the spark plug was damp and smelled like gasoline. Begininning to think the problem is with the ignition coil. I appreciate any ideas.
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DO YOU HAVE POWER TO THE COIL...? first things FIRST.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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When all else fails you can remove the ignition control module from the distributor and have it tested for free at some auto parts retailers. If it fails shop around as prices vary quite a bit although there is only the one manufacturer. Instead of testing the module some people who have stuff lying around try replacing the whole distributor. Getting a replacement distributor from a junk yard is no gurantee the mocule is good. Ask me how I know.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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Worked on my Festiva again today. Coil is showing power to it of 12 volts. I tested the ohms for the primary and secondary windings in the new ignition coil before installing it and got good results. Checked out the fusible links. The main one measured 12 volts with the key on. The other two didn't show any voltage. Disconnected all three wires (links) which tested good for ohms. Also, cleaned the battery cables and posts. Checked the ignition wire from the coil for ohms. It was OK. Tried testing for spark at the number one spark plug again. Still got no spark. Used a spark plug wire and spark plug connected to the coil to test for spark and got none. Of course the car will still crank but not start. Anyone have any ideas? The distributor and the Ignition Control Module are new but thinking about having the ICM tested at a parts store.
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Thanks to everyone for their ideas so far.
There are no auto parts stores near me that can test the ICM. This morning, I did verify that power is good up to the ICM. The fusible links are good. Now for the latest update, my car has developed a new symptom. I tried to start the car but for a few seconds while the key was in the start position the starter would not crank the engine. After those few seconds the engine began cranking over but still wouldn't start. Later that afternoon my wife was cranking the engine while I was looking under the hood when the engine quit turning over. She still had the key in the start position but the starter didn't work. I hear a two second buzz from under the back of the engine when the key is turned from off to on. Turning the key to the start position does nothing. Has the starter gone bad? I have given up for today.
So far I have replaced the following:
fuel and air filters
mechanical fuel pump
distributor and ICM
ignition coil
and battery.
Also:
I have confirmed that spark plugs and wires are good
coil wire, distributor cap and rotor are good
power is good to the coil and ICM
cleaned battery posts, cables and cleaned where battery ground cable attached
to the body and cleaned the ground from the engine to the body
have confirmed all fuses and fusible links are good
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
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