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**25Horseplay** · 06-11-2006, 07:45 PM

Where are you located? Their might be someone on the board near you that would be willing to help.

**Caughtinthewake** · 06-11-2006, 09:21 PM

Kansas City, Kansas...this message board doesnt like me...human error i guess.

Edit: Ahaha it was human error...I looked at the avatars and saw there were none...clicked back and I guess i needed to reload the page to edit my profile...Then I tried posting my locating, but clicked out of spell check and didnt submit! Genius...

ops:

**batstiva** · 06-11-2006, 09:29 PM

Not sure about the temp guage, I'll leave that to bigger brains than mine.

ops:

The WohwWohwWohwWohwWohw sound you hear, I would suspicion a loose or worn belt. Mine did that for quite awhile, when I finally investigated the problem, my belt had actually split in two, lengthwise, for about 6 or 8 inches, and what I heard was that split passing over the pulleys.

As far as the poor gas mileage, not to ask the obvious, but have you tried changing the plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor button,etc. Maybe not all at once, don't know your budget, and have no experience with FI Festivas, so don't know about changing the fuel filter (Dammit, and I can't find my Haynes Manual, which by the way is another suggestion I have to for you). Anyway, I would try those, as they are mostly pretty quick, inexpensive fixes.

Hope this helps a little, and Good Luck.

**Caughtinthewake** · 06-11-2006, 09:50 PM

With the spark plugs am I supposed to tighten them to a certain amount?
I haven't had the chance to look, but how much would some cheap plugs and wires cost?

I've noticed a few times that one of the prong things (sorry for my lack of technical terminology) in my Dist. Cap was corroded so I scrape that off whenever I see corrosion. Or should I just get a new one? Also where the plug goes into it gets corroded so I scrape that out too.

I dont know where the fuel filter is at lol. I always have said I could be a mechanic If I just knew what the things under the hood were lol, yeah i know, its sad.

How much does the Haynes manual and the other things cost? I guess I can look for myself.

My budget is very low. My car gets more gas money than I get food money!

What's a roto button? lol, I really hardly know anything other than keep an eye on your fluids and some basic...

Thanks for the input. I'll keep tabs on this post.

Temp. Gauge anyone? :cry: I don't want to blow up one day

I had the chance to learn these things from my grandpa before he passed away, but sadly, I did not realize the importance of such things at that age.

**FestYboy** · 06-11-2006, 11:06 PM

OK, I'll go down your list from above:

Plugs: get standard copper core plugs like champion or AC Delco, or if you're like some people, NGK or Denso (also copper core) these range from $.99-1.89 depending on manufacture. Personally, my festy likes AC Delco. when you purchase the plugs, have the person behind the counter gap them to .045" (they should be able to do that for you unless they are completely incompetent, which some are). If they say that they are pre gaped, have them check it anyway (insist on this). when you get home, if you have access to a metal file or dremel tool, cut the ground strap (little hook thingy) until it's just to the outside of the center prong (electrode). if you are uncomfortable or haven't the facilities to do this, don't worry, it's not that big of a deal.

the wires can be had for around $20, any brand will do.

if you're seeing corrosion on the inside of your distro cap, this is normal. but if you're seeing pitting in the cap (on the prongs) this is bad and the cap, wires and plugs should be inspected and if need be, replaced. Seeing corrosion where the wires go into the cap is also bad and needs to be addressed. If the person behind the counter offers you a little packet of what looks like petroleum jelly, take ONE (that's all you'll need). It in NOT petroleum jelly, it is dielectric grease and will seal the contact areas it's applied to while still conducting electricity. Use a little on each end of your wires, the tips of the plugs (where the wires attach), and on the center of the rotor (the thing that spins inside the cap). the ROTOR BUTTON touches the rotor and that area is susceptible to carbon scoring. Putting a little grease there will help that (it's impossible to get away from it entirely).

the Fuel filter should be replaced about every 36,000 mi or 3 years (just like your coolant and brake fluid, and auto trans fluid if you have one). this can cause really poor mileage if it's blocked up. a new one should be around $10-15 depending where you get it (i think). when you replace your filter, get a bottle of Sea Foam and Marvel Mystery Oil and use them both every fill up until they're done. they break up any carbon and varnish deposits in your fuel system.

speaking of fuel systems, while the engine is running, take a LONG screw driver and gently place it against each of the injectors and listen to the other end (the handle should be placed against your ear, again, gently). the ticking noise you should hear should be steady and uniform in volume between each of the injectors. If you don't hear one of them, firmly smack it with the butt end of the screwdriver and check it again. If it still doesn't make noise, it's time to see a dealer, as the injector could be stuck open (this would contribute greatly to lack of mileage but won't hurt the power so much).

the Haynes manual can be had for about $18 and is invaluable for the beginner.

the temp gauge thing is probably a wiring issue more than the sensor itself, and as for overheating, if the fan is running when you park the car after a drive, it's not gonna over heat (the fan switch is on a separate circuit from the temp sensor). If the fan ISN'T running when you park, let it idle for a bit and listen for it to turn on. It should kick on in less than 5 min. if it doesn't, you have a problem.

good luck and feel free to ask any more questions

**WmWatt** · 06-12-2006, 10:07 AM

A cheap diagnostic tool is a vacuum guage. Watching the needle will tell you if the engine is missing even when you can't hear the engine skipping beats. I'd frist remove each ignition wire in turn and wipe it clean with a rag. You can also remove the distributor cap and give it a wipe but you should not sand or scrape the terminals because modern ones have a platinum coating that will come off and cause misfires. (I'm 60 years old and used to sanding the old brass terminals but leaned the hard and expensive way not to sand terminals on modern distributors.) (There is a guide to engine diagnosis with a vacuum guage and a couple of other Festiva related files on my website at www.ncf.ca/~ag384/Cars.htm . I'm no longer a member there so don't know how long they will be up. Anyone who wants is welcome to download copies of any of my files.)

Ignition systems are pretty much the same on most cars so a generic auto repair manual from the public library or a used book sale will explain them. We have a good public library with some Haynes and Chilton manual for specific cars. You can also find Haynes manuals a second hand books stores. They go for $7 Canadian around here or as low as 50 cents at church rummage sales if you can find them.

A general "top end" cleaning should help. I don't know about fuel injection by my carburetted engine likes a spray of carburettor cleaner, and I added some chemical just before an oil change that cleaned a sticking exhaust valve. Pay attention to the instructions and don't leave it in for more than 5 min or it will eat away at the aluminum engine parts.

**wrestler3025** · 06-13-2006, 12:58 AM

If you replace all of the items mentioned above and you still aren't getting the mileage you want, consider the O2 sensor as well. On my mustangs I started getting horrible gas mileage once the o2's were going. It definitely sounds like you need to read quite a bit. As stated by the other guys above, the Haynes manual is going to be invaluable to you, especially since you are on a tight budget. Good luck!!

Joe

**geezerstiva** · 06-13-2006, 05:13 PM

temp gauge:

try the water temperature sender. my temp gauge quit a while ago and that was the problem with it. it's just a small plug that screws into the front of the engine block near the cooling fan switch. it has a wire plugged onto one end and the other end screws into the block. it's pretty cheap, and easy to change, and i got it at auto zone. if you decide to try it, be careful when screwing it out, because water (or antifreeze) will come out when you unscrew it. i just held my finger over the hole until i could get the new one in there. hope this helps!

CAUTION: the auto zone guys tried to sell me the thing that plugs onto the temp sender. make sure the thing you buy has threads on it.

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Horrible Gas Milage and other Problems

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