Beating a dead horse with Thor's Hammer.

[MiltonHavoc]

Well Im not quite ready to start a build thread, as I first want to restore her to "optimal" running condition...if possible.
So, instead of making multiple threads all over, I will just ask all of my questions here at once.
I know a lot of you will say "search" and I am, as well as reading a Lot of info. Its a lot for my brain to take in. If you do not want to answer then please just provide a link. That will suffice plenty for me. I actually would kind of prefer links. Reading through all the topics, they seem to go off on a tangent so getting the answers I'm looking for proves to be "brain hurting"

Anyways, on to it!

-So I get a lot of rattle at stoplights, more pronounced when I put my foot on the brakes. Its not totally jarring, but it is noticeable and I wonder if others can hear it. If I ease my foot off the brakes it dies down moderately.

- My back hatch seems to be put on very well, but there is some play in it, and I think it jars around while I drive a bit under acceleration.
- Where is the vacuum line that you introduce seafoam to?
- I keep seeing mention of an aspire head swap to increase top-end efficiency? I read in one thread that it was a direct swap to a b3 block?
can someone link me to the how-to and if possible chime in on the benefits of this swap?
- As pertaining to the b6/t swap: is this more of an efficiency swap with mild benefits and some power potential, or is it more of a lateral upgrade from the b3?
- what kind of mpg are you swapped guys seeing? I mean all of the different swaps. Lets set up the answer so its: "spirited driving/ conservative driving.
- Anyone have diagrams to the different engine systems of the b3? I know the Z community did a pcv "re-route" or "delete" and save huge improvement on oil stability and longevity as well as better engine idle and auto-x/track performance.

-what kind of chassis bracing are available for festivas? And whats more aside from Advanced dynamics, who has racing seats? you can take your time answering this one, I JUST made it to the interior thread, so I will probably find answers soon.
Who has upgraded to better seatbelts that put your mind at ease.

- I have seen one thread on roll-cages, I was curious if anyone has done a half-cage?

Thats it for now, I'm off to put clear coat on the stuff I have painted......

[Safety Guy]

Here is a link to my AquaMutt build thread. It may not have all you wish, but stuff on "practical, minimalist" bodywork, a B6 engine swap, replacing hard lines, Aspire suspension and brake swap, some interior work (including swapping to manual belts from the auto crap), some info on the seat bracket differences between old and new cars (belt systems), and more. Lot of little things which you may find worthwhile. Lots of pictures of a stripped Festiva, including rolled on its side for better hard line work. Plus a lot of little things.

Link:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?31934-AquaMutt-build-thread&highlight=aquamutt+build

I also provide links to some problems I had when they cropped up.

Soon I'm reinstalling my B6 head and I hope to do a pictorial guide to a head exchange/swap in the car. Then I may do a B3 swap to an Aspire head after I get that one checked and cleaned, etc.

Karl

[FestivaReed]

- My back hatch seems to be put on very well, but there is some play in it, and I think it jars around while I drive a bit under acceleration. (hammer or shift the latch on the chassis to tighten up)
- Where is the vacuum line that you introduce seafoam to? (i reco, using the brake booster line, because its easy to get to , just be careful its a large diameter hose to suck seafoam into, be prepared to hold the idle @ 2k , dont hydrolock )

[MiltonHavoc]

Holy wow safety guy. You went through n through your Festiva huh. Thanks for that info. I'm on page 5 of your build.

I don't know how I missed the build thread section of this forum...

@ festivareed: thanks, I will give that a try!

[Bert]

You kinda throw in "B6T swap" possibility as an aside. This was a rare purpose-built turbocharged hi-performance engine that will re-define your definition of 'spirited' and 'daily driver' should you manage to find one and get it properly bolted into a Festy. OEM brakes and suspension, nor Festy transmission, will hold up/stay together for long with one of those on-board. AdvanceDynamix has one and his car is about as far from stock as it gets (except on the outside). However, every extra 10 hp you can and do come up and every suspension and wheel and brake improvement (we're talking on the cheap, here) makes these cars that much more fun when it comes to tinkering with classic econoboxes.

If your hatch rattles most likely the latch is adjusted too tight. Seems like counter-intuitive advice but try backing off on it in small increments instead of tightening. Whole arrangement is sort of like a hood latch, chances are you're catching the last grab and no longer the main or first.

[MiltonHavoc]

Thanks Bert.
I have come across two b6t engines for sale here in Colorado in the past two weeks...

I think I get confused with all the B's.
I was reading where it said that the b6 was like dropping in the b3 as far as complications go.

Then I read about the BP which was a good "all around" engine as in terms of mpg/power, put that was the swap that required fidgeting with the frame and cutting some material from part of the trans or something in that area.

I read the b8 required that and something with the axles..?

[Bert]

Have not so far done an engine swap myself but the standard single cam B6 is almost a dead ringer size-wise and fit to a B3. Things get more complicated once you start looking at twin cams and/or the 1.8 litre engines.

[MiltonHavoc]

@Bert: I think we are confusing each other. I do NOT mean the b6t. I mean the b6/t or b6-t. Sorry, In nomenclature I'm used to: that means adding a turbo later or that its an aftermarket turbo. From now on I will say b6.

this is where I got the idea of the progression of the swaps.

Honestly, in my opinion, I would recommend a simple B6 swap for a first timer. A quick test of mechanical skills, its nearly fool-proof. No mounts or fancy wiring needed. Basically if you can pull a festy engine and reinstall it, youll get the B6 swap done.

A B8 is the next leap forward with a custom mount (and maybe a trans swap, as youre reaching the breaking point of the stock trans)

After that youre looking at some wiring and trans swaps, the latter of which makes things a lot more complex.

[MiltonHavoc]

But now I'm reading more and it says: Out the box the b6t is pretty much a go fast swap. While the b6 is a good improvement over the b3 and has room for potential.
However: The Bp swap is a good (semi basic) swap, that, with the addition of a turbo will outperform a b6t. And still keep 40mpg POST turbocharger.

[MiltonHavoc]

Right now though, she is dead on the side of the highway. I think I'm getting low gas mileage.
The driving conditions are as follows: My highways speed I try to limit it to about 70. The speedlimit here is 75. I have two major hills to get over. the rest is basically flat or downhill.
I changed the sparkplugs yesterday. They were white oxidised (?) at spark-side. I'll look that up later.
Changing the plugs helped with the idle some. Its less aggressive now.
I still get this shaking at idle, while holding the brakes. It lessens if I ease off the brakes.
Oh and the brakes are mush so I'm doing the brake swap after thanksgiving.
I need to change my thermostat as I am plagued with the ice cold heater.
I will also delve into the O2 sensor as I read that could be a sub-issue of my low mpg.
Injectors will get changed, but I'm still searching for the info of an upgrade or just new injectors all around. I'll ask outright if I cant find it by searching.

I have the alternator squeal as well. Im thinking I might just tear her down during the week or take her to a mechanic (my garage is full) and do a top-end overhaul all at once. ( timing, o2, thermostat, waterpump,belts,injectors,etc.) Also head gasket and new studs.

[Safety Guy]

B6 SOHC and Aspire brake swap would make her a new car. You'd be going from 63 to 82 hp. That's about a 30% increase in power, with better brakes to stop it. Relatively easy to do with hand tools and a couple of wire splices. When the engine comes out, it's the perfect time to freshen the compartment up with new steering boots, cleaning, new clutch, etc. Win-win-win-win all around the block.

Karl

[Bert]

Engines that are turbo-charged right from the factory are strategically engineered to handle the stress whereas when you throw a turbo on to an ordinary engine the lifespan of it drops like a stone. Small example: via a race camshaft and OEM doubled (an inner and outer) valve springs I got another 2500 rpm out of a British Mini engine 40 years ago. First off the ordinary valve seals (50 cents each) blew out the moment the engine fired ("S" seals were like $2 each) and then the valves constantly burnt and had to be lapped every 1000 miles. Only because they weren't sodium-filled (@10X the cost)! Every week it was something else that came apart. Sure, the car went like stink but never for very long. I toyed with the idea of a supercharger (I don't think there were turbos back then) but didn't have deep enough pockets.
No doubt if you are cautious and keep the boost well down something like this could work but when was the last time someone under the age of 30 ever listened to advice?

[MiltonHavoc]

@ Bert. Good think I am a year over ;-)
A morris mini or a Mini will be my next car. I just hope it has as much room as a Festiva.

@Karl: Sounds like a good step up.

Thanks everybody for the advice and putting up with my questions and such. Its been a real help in the introduction to understanding this car.

P.S.
My name is Greg.

[MiltonHavoc]

Well, the thermostat issue is gonna be an interesting one.
After reading,I learned that the festiva does not blow hot air through the front vents. I did not comprehend what that meant....Well now I do.
I have a "decent" heater, and when I run it , the temp gauge now goes up to 1/4 of the way hahahah. This has helped gas mileage a little bit. I am now from about 19(20 maybe) to a good (25 maybe 26). I say that because it was taking almost half a tank to get 70 miles....at 65-70 mph.

after getting some seat time under my belt, I can now say I have an entry level feel for this car. I am gonna need bearings and bushings.
Aspire brake swap definitely. I plan to order a new manual rack off a member here this paycheck or next.
Well Im going to drill holes in the air box and get more seat time hahahahah!

[DriverOne]

Re: Beating a dead horse with Thor's Hammer.

Well, the thermostat issue is gonna be an interesting one.
After reading,I learned that the festiva does not blow hot air through the front vents. I did not comprehend what that meant....Well now I do.
I have a "decent" heater, and when I run it , the temp gauge now goes up to 1/4 of the way hahahah. This has helped gas mileage a little bit. I am now from about 19(20 maybe) to a good (25 maybe 26). I say that because it was taking almost half a tank to get 70 miles....at 65-70 mph.

after getting some seat time under my belt, I can now say I have an entry level feel for this car. I am gonna need bearings and bushings.
Aspire brake swap definitely. I plan to order a new manual rack off a member here this paycheck or next.
Well Im going to drill holes in the air box and get more seat time hahahahah!

There's a way to add a cone filter as well.