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wanting to clarify the pattern for bleeding brakes.

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  • wanting to clarify the pattern for bleeding brakes.

    Ok went through the search function already.

    just want the confirmation of what i think from reading the back posts.

    I replaces my front brakes today, had to take the driverside one off and move everything manualy and a few whacks to get them moving good again.

    after finished Which i thought i had done it right ( apparently not) i now have no brake pressure. so i need to bleed them.

    Do i start Front passenger , Rear passenger , rear driver then front driver in that order?

  • #2
    you start farthest away from the master cylinder! so right rear left rear right front ect!
    -1991 L 238k AC/Cruise Josh's future DD from neanderpaul, the clean slate!

    -1991 GL 171k AC/Rust free Jake's future DD (thanks kevin!)

    -1993 L B6T swapped auto(thanks rob!) 88k was 123whp 15.8 at 87mph currently undergoing surgery

    -1989 LX crazy project car you'll all see one day! (hopefully fm8 )

    Have one hydro g and xr2 mid shaft for sale super cheap! PM me!

    we have owned 10 of these cars to date and we're only 20 hahah.. call it an obsession!

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    • #3
      not sure on the order, just make sure you bleed them right, step on the brake, crack the valve until bubbles start reversing and close it off, release the brake and do it again, and again, and again..until no bubbles come out. don't let the reservoir run out of brake fluid.
      2008 Kia Rio- new beater
      1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
      1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
      1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
      1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
      1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
      1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
      1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



      "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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      • #4
        i mean just from my experience you want to get the air out farthest away from the MC first so right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
        -1991 L 238k AC/Cruise Josh's future DD from neanderpaul, the clean slate!

        -1991 GL 171k AC/Rust free Jake's future DD (thanks kevin!)

        -1993 L B6T swapped auto(thanks rob!) 88k was 123whp 15.8 at 87mph currently undergoing surgery

        -1989 LX crazy project car you'll all see one day! (hopefully fm8 )

        Have one hydro g and xr2 mid shaft for sale super cheap! PM me!

        we have owned 10 of these cars to date and we're only 20 hahah.. call it an obsession!

        Comment


        • #5
          soo
          1. Rear passenger
          2. rear driver
          3.front passenger
          4 front driver

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          • #6
            Originally posted by yousufwalton View Post
            soo
            1. Rear passenger
            2. rear driver
            3.front passenger
            4 front driver
            Yes this is the right way to do it. Buy a quart bottle of brake fluid, two foot of 1/4" clear plastic hose, put the plastic hose in the bottle clear to the bottom, attach the other end of the hose to the bleed valve on the wheel cylinder, have a friend pump the brakes up and hold while you crack the bleed valve, this will allow you to see the bubbles and the fluid coming out, good luck
            Last edited by sc72; 11-28-2012, 08:45 PM.
            An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by sc72 View Post
              Yes this is the right way to do it. Buy a quart bottle of brake fluid, two foot of 1/4" clear plastic hose, put the plastic hose in the bottle clear to the bottom, attach the other end of the hose to the bleed valve on the wheel cylinder, have a friend pump the brakes up and hold while you crack the bleed valve, this will allow you to see the bubbles and the fluid coming out, good luck
              Actually, with the clear plastic hose you don't need a friend to pump the brakes. If the hose is directed upward all air bubbles rise to the top. Mind you it is more enjoyable, and faster, to have a second body on hand.

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              • #8
                LOL!

                I hear start farthest and start closest both. Personally, I was taught to start closest to the MC, and work away, Driver front, pass front, driver rear, pass rear. That is how I have done it for what, 23-24 years now? I guess either way works
                Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by scitzz View Post
                  LOL!

                  I hear start farthest and start closest both. Personally, I was taught to start closest to the MC, and work away, Driver front, pass front, driver rear, pass rear. That is how I have done it for what, 23-24 years now? I guess either way works
                  Unless your system is entirely compromised whatever order you do the bleeding doesn't usually make much difference. The Haynes manual does recommend going from furthest to closest though. If there's air in the system in and around the M/C I can see not wanting to bleed it out from the furthest away point.

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                  • #10
                    I've heard in Europe they have tinted brake fluid....
                    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                    2005 Accord - wife's DD
                    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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                    • #11
                      Listen to Bert. It's called gravity bleeding. You may have to suck on the line to get flow started. Look at photo #75 here
                      http://www.photobucket.com/Festiva-frontwheel for a thing I made out of a soft drink can and some tubing, the fluid flows out of the bleeder nipple, up the clear tube where you can see any bubbles, and drips into the can. There's some coat hanger wired taped to the can to hang it on the coil spring.
                      Last edited by WmWatt; 11-29-2012, 02:19 PM.
                      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                      • #12
                        bled all the brakes no air bubbles or anything still feels a little squishy. is this just a characteristic of them?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by yousufwalton View Post
                          bled all the brakes no air bubbles or anything still feels a little squishy. is this just a characteristic of them?
                          No. If you've adjusted or changed the brakes it usually takes a good 'drive around the block with a heavy brake foot' to seat/adjust things but if bleeding is all you've done then something is still not right.

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                          • #14
                            Took me almost 2000 miles to wear in minivan brake pads when I did them all the way around.
                            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I usually just turn them all on and when the bubbles quit I turn them off ..usually the farthest
                              one from the MC goes the longest.

                              Vacuum bleeders work well.

                              I never tried my pressure bleeder..I only use it on metal reservoirs.

                              Street rods with the MC lower than the cylinder I start with vacuum
                              and finish with a hose from the cylinder all the way back to the reservoir.
                              The hose to the reservoir has to be kept under the fluid so that pumping
                              the brake pedal will loop the fluid with bubbles escaping from the reservoir.

                              Squaring and seating shoes or pads is a whole nother subject.

                              The traditional 2 person "down" ...:down... "up" UP works but is the
                              least effective in my experience.
                              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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