Overheating B8 during idle

[Coldhand]

Im New to forum so thanks for letting me post. I have a '93 festiva with a B8 SOHC. I am almost finished modding the car for 24 hours of Lemons and Chumps. I used so many forums for the build, thanks again.
My problem during my inaugural test I took Stiv to Autocross and it would get mighty hot during idle in line to race and cool down 40 degrees during the one minute of track. The smallish pull fan is on constant. I think the fan ducting is the problem. The fan only covers about 50% of the new stock radiator. It is attached directly on the radiator. I'm ready to add a Larger pull and/or push fans run direct from main cutoff and controlled by a toggle switch for the driver.
Any ideas or concerns?
Stiv did well today. I will list mods at some point.

[Aaronbrook37]

Welcome to the forum! Could be, assuming the basics are hammered out. It's amazing how much higher the coolant temperature can run when you're just a little low on coolant or it's improperly bled or the belt isn't properly tightened/attached. I always start there in my overflow tank when my car runs a little extra hot. Other than that... what sort of thermostat do you have installed in the car? Is it relatively new and or in good working order?

[Ford Fester]

Take ur thermostat out

[Festy46]

If you're running the Festiva stock radiator with the auto transmission 2 rows of cooling tubes and the stock Festiva fan, you should definately not be having a cooling problem at idle. We ran the SOHC B8ME on a circle track at 7000 rpms on the straights and drop to about 5500 rpms through the corners and rarely got to 230 degrees on a 90+ degree day. Any caution flags would immediately drop the temp below 200. We used a special order high pressure radiator cap and always had like new radiator hoses and no thermostat. We tried running a restrictor washer in the thermostat housing (about 5/8" or 3/4"), but it never seemed to make any difference so we quit using the washer.

[Coldhand]

I have to admit, I have not checked into the thermostat yet. I will pull the thermostat first. The new radiator has only a pull fan attached to the back, no shroud. I installed a tach and temperature gauge but used the fan temp switch opening for the aftermarket unit. So, the stock gauge would go the 3/4 and the aftermarket would hit 230+ standing at idle, and climb. Just more information in case mounting the other gauge caused this issue with an air bubble or something. What is a good procedure to bleed system after I remove thermostat?

[Coldhand]

What does a stock radiator, shroud, and fan look like? I bought car with the B8 installed.

[Spike]

Like dis:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Festiva-Radiator-Standard-Transmission-Festiva-and-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-/200852479185?fits=Model:Festiva&hash=item2ec3bd9cd1&item=200852479185&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

~Joe

[blkfordsedan]

First thing I would do is install a factory fan and shroud. You can't move any air with an open fan directly against the radiator. Most cheap aftermarket fans are designed to augment the factory fan, unless you buy an expensive one designed to be the primary fan and has a built in shroud. The B8 should run cool with a factory radiator and fan setup. Sound like airflow is the problem, since when you start moving the temp drops.

[Festy46]

I would highly recommend getting a new fan/shroud assembly and a new 2 core radiator. Ebay sells both at a lot of different prices. Be sure to look at all of them for the best deal. Install a fan switch on your dash so the driver can control the fan. You may also want to consider wiring a small indicator light into the circuit for the fan so the driver can tell at a glance if the fan is on. Use a blue or green light. Save the red ones for engine problem warnings.

[Festy46]

What is a good procedure to bleed system after I remove thermostat?

Without a thermostat there isn't much chance of air getting trapped in the system. With an empty radiator and engine block, add part of a bottle of water pump lube/radiator rust inhibitor and part of a bottle of one of the cooling additives. Then pour in about a half gallon of distilled water, start the engine and continue filling the radiator until it is full. Always used distilled water because there is no air in it and you need all the water you can get to keep the engine cool. Don't use anti-freeze because it doesn't dissipate heat as well as straight water. Distilled water is available at most any grocery store.

[Coldhand]

Great input:
My plans for the repair are now:
1. Install original style fan and shroud. (Better airflow)
2. Remove thermostat.
3. Drain and flush.
4. Add a portion of inhibitor/lube and fill with distilled water.

I will update this thread with developments.

[Movin]

If you didn't do the install make sure the fan is not wired backwards making it turn the fan the wrong way..

plus 1 on your plan from festy46

[Ford Fester]

If you're running the Festiva stock radiator with the auto transmission 2 rows of cooling tubes and the stock Festiva fan, you should definately not be having a cooling problem at idle. We ran the SOHC B8ME on a circle track at 7000 rpms on the straights and drop to about 5500 rpms through the corners and rarely got to 230 degrees on a 90+ degree day. Any caution flags would immediately drop the temp below 200. We used a special order high pressure radiator cap and always had like new radiator hoses and no thermostat. We tried running a restrictor washer in the thermostat housing (about 5/8" or 3/4"), but it never seemed to make any difference so we quit using the washer.

How did you get 7000 rpm out of a b8?

[FestYboy]

^ carb.... gotta love 'em!!!

[Festy46]

^ carb.... gotta love 'em!!!

Yup. A carb will do it.
Here's a pic of a SOHC B8ME carbed:

And a short incar clip where you can see the tach hit 7000 rpms.
7000 rpms is at the 3 o'clock position on the tach in the center of the dash. http://www.jmflumber.com/xtrafiles/ShortIncar.mpg