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  • Timing belt replacing?

    How hard and what do I need to do to replace my timing belt. Mine broke . And I need to replace it.


    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
    First time owner
    89 L carb'd - white / still needs work
    Bought for mpg and only paid $250


  • #2
    i attempted to search my write-up posted a few months ago, nothing found... boo
    Trees aren't kind to me...

    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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    • #3
      Re: Timing belt replacing?

      Yeah. I did a search for timing belt.

      Sent from my PC36100 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
      First time owner
      89 L carb'd - white / still needs work
      Bought for mpg and only paid $250

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      • #4
        GOT IT!! http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...eplace%2C+belt read the entire thing i have 2-3 posts on how to do it
        Trees aren't kind to me...

        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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        • #5
          I'm assuming it's the '89 festiva you have listed in your signature, which practically identical to my '88. I've done this repair and it wasn't too terribly hard considering that I don't have A/C, which means less belts and pulleys to get out of the way. However, I have more experience than the average car owner. The most difficult thing was lining up the timing marks. I could easily turn the crankshaft gear and line up the marks there, but the camshaft pulley was another matter. I couldn't turn it due to valve spring pressure. I ended up putting the new timing belt on both the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear and using the starter motor via a remote switch to turn the camshaft until the timing marks were lined up. Then, I took the belt off and lined up the timing marks on the crankshaft gear and CAREFULLY put the timing belt back on. Putting the belt back on tended to turn crankshaft out of alignment. I had to have a second person use a strap wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley in place while I put the timing belt back on. The only other real problem I had was bolting the pulleys back on the crankshaft. There wasn't a whole lot of room to work. In order to even get to the bolts on the crankshaft pulley, you have to remove the splash guard and then line up the bolt you want to work on so that it is at the bottom of the pulley. Have someone else hold the pulley in place with a strap wrench while you are taking the bolts on/off. Don't make the same mistake I did by accidentally breaking bolts because the repair manual gave the torque as INCH-POUNDS and I had read foot-pounds. Fortunately, I was able to remove the broken bolts and replace them. I would recommend having a mechanic give you an estimate before you decide to take this on. If you decide to do this yourself and have any questions, I might be able to help.
          Last edited by spoman; 12-24-2012, 12:10 AM.

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          • #6
            I follwed the instructions in the Haynes manual and had no insurmountable problem.
            You don't have to take off the crankshaft nut, just the bolts and screws
            holding on the lower pulley. It was tight getting them off. I recall using an open end wrench
            and turning the crank to line up every bolt and screw at the bottom so I could get at them.
            It can also be tight getting the pulley out between the
            block and fender. I was able to push on a pry bar on the upper engine mount
            and the pulley dropped out. Other people have reported here they had had to remove
            engine mounting bolts and lower the block a bit to get the pulley out.
            I didn't have any problem lining up the new belt. As I recall I left everything where it was
            after removing the old belt and just put the new belt on in the same position as the old one.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              a dot of blue loc-tite is not a bad idea..any bolts holding timing and pulley stuff.
              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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              • #8
                Lower the pass side of engine by loosening mount nuts. Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing belt.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                  Lower the pass side of engine by loosening mount nuts. Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing belt.
                  Jamming the flywheel to loosen the crank pulley is recommended but I circumvented that, just as george did, by undoing the engine mount and dropping the engine down low enough to be able to get an air wrench on the crank nut from outside the wheel well.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bert View Post
                    Jamming the flywheel to loosen the crank pulley is recommended but I circumvented that, just as george did, by undoing the engine mount and dropping the engine down low enough to be able to get an air wrench on the crank nut from outside the wheel well.
                    You don't have to remove the crank bolt unless you're going to replace the seal or if you have a late '93 with a hub boss.
                    Last edited by georgeb; 12-29-2012, 06:21 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Timing belt replacing?

                      Replaced my timing belt this weekend. It was pretty easy!! BUT I've got to go back and align it.. when doing it. I set timing mark on crank pulley at wrong spot.

                      Sent from my PC36100 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
                      First time owner
                      89 L carb'd - white / still needs work
                      Bought for mpg and only paid $250

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                      • #12
                        So I am curious, I have a new gasket for my timing belt cover, should I replace the belt when I do the gasket? I have no clue when the last time it was changed, (I assume it has been at least once) But I could be wrong. And my v-belt is starting to crack up so I should replace that as well since I have to remove this to do the cover gasket. Right?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jacob View Post
                          So I am curious, I have a new gasket for my timing belt cover, should I replace the belt when I do the gasket? I have no clue when the last time it was changed, (I assume it has been at least once) But I could be wrong. And my v-belt is starting to crack up so I should replace that as well since I have to remove this to do the cover gasket. Right?
                          My opinion is "yes" to changing both the timing and alternator belts while you have it apart.

                          Unless you really enjoy taking things apart twice.

                          Just my 2¢.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Timing belt replacing?

                            Got timing belt replaced. Cam at 12 & 3. Crank at 12. And I've have to adjust the dizzy a the way forward. What's wrong??

                            Sent from my PC36100 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
                            First time owner
                            89 L carb'd - white / still needs work
                            Bought for mpg and only paid $250

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The cam shaft has a key in it with the cam sprocket. Potential here for shearing the key and being off a bit, not unheard of.
                              -Zack
                              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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