Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Pilot Bearing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pilot Bearing

    Do you guys think a transmission OUTPUT bearing, could cause a PILOT bearing to fail? I'm trying to figure out why this particular Festy is on going to need a new PILOT bearing after only 4K?
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

  • #2
    I would think a pilot bearing would not be affected by the transmission bearing. The only thing I can think of is that the factory never greased the bearing or one of the seals came out and let dirt from the clutch disc get in the bearing.
    You gonna race that thing?
    http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

    Comment


    • #3
      Be careful to pound them or press them only on the outer race.
      any impact to the seal or inner race can lead to this. You probably
      already know that though!

      When stabbing the tranny it may be possible to miss the pilot a little
      and do some damage.

      It is more likely that the bearing came dry. I have found some
      that did not fail but squeeled that had no grease. Seemed to be
      on only one type, in this case tacoma pickups, several over a two
      year period.
      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

      Comment


      • #4
        The pilot bearings I've seen in these are tin shielded bearings (6201-2Z if I remember correctly), so they are not a "positive" sealed bearing anyway. Typically, the rubber contact sealed bearings do not like the heat and are RPM limited due to the seal contact. There could be any number of reasons, but its most likely the bearing was bad to start with. If it was ever dropped on the floor, or if you accidentally hit the inner race when pressing it into the flywheel, then it could ruin the bearing. Sometimes, even storing the bearing on edge can ruin them if there is vibration present (like a warehouse next to an Interstate or railroad tracks). The commodity sizes like 6000 series can be really bad about that because the cheap ones are shipped and stored in bulk and are not individually wrapped or boxed.


        I would go to the local bearing distributor and buy a quality bearing like an SKF, Koyo, NTN or NSK and make sure when you install it that you only press on the outer race.
        Brian

        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
        Not enough time or money for any of them

        Comment


        • #5
          To press mine into the flywheel I used a socket that just cleared the flywheel hole [I forget the size] and rested on the outer race. This was a new flywheel and the bearing hole was not bored all the way through, leaving a small step. When I pressed in the bearing from the big end of the hole, it stopped against the step which left it in proper position.

          Comment


          • #6
            Well I appreciate the input guys (no pun intended),my son and I will have to pull this apart and see what gives. I was extremely careful when we assembled it (installing the bearing & stabbing the tranny). Sounds like it might be dry,my son says he remembers when we first started the car. That it made the exact sound its making now,but only for a moment.I wonder if maybe the bearing froze and is now spinning in the flywheel bore.....
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm certain now after driving with my son in his car that I miss diagnosed the noise. I believe it may be the INPUT bearing. It only howls when in neutral with your foot OFF the clutch pedal. Then when driving in gear it howls,but if you coast in gear it goes away. But as soon as you apply some power/torque again it starts to howl again. Bummer...gotta love these "E" series tranny's
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

              Comment


              • #8
                If you lost one trans bearing regardless which one all the trans bearings may have lost the shine on the balls / rollers and all the nooks and crannies will need to be cleaned well. Bearings breaking up are like using carbide for lube.
                Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                Comment


                • #9
                  What all did you do to it? I wonder if maybe the flywheel is rubbing on the plate between the motor and the trans.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by denguy View Post
                    What all did you do to it? I wonder if maybe the flywheel is rubbing on the plate between the motor and the trans.
                    That would be a constant noise,this goes away with the clutch disengaged. But thanks for trying to help-
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What do you mean by "disengaged"?

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X