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265000k on my timing belt .... should I change it?

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  • 265000k on my timing belt .... should I change it?

    I have one on order but really dont want to do it. how long should they go??

  • #2
    Is that sarcasm? I find it hard to believe that it would be original. Isn't too bad of a job, I'd do it for peace of mind for sure
    Buck.
    -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
    -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
    -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

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    • #3
      My timing belt snapped afew months ago. It sucked to have my Festiva down for a day, but B3's are non-interference engines, so nothing gets damaged if the valves are out of time with the stroke ( belt snaps while driving ). I'd just wait til it snaps, but i'm a big redneck like that :highly_amused:

      Guess it really depends on if you have a back-up ride or not.

      When you do it, make sure you use a flashlight to see where the timing grooves are on the crank gear. The timing grooves aren't stamped on the crank gear like they are the cam gear. There's a groove that rides up against the block on the crank gear thats almost impossible to see without bulb assistance.
      Last edited by Fester's Quest; 01-21-2013, 02:24 AM.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bassman View Post
        265000k on my timing belt .... should I change it? I have one on order but really dont want to do it. how long should they go??
        Naaaaa let it go,it'll let you know when its the "Correct Time" to change it. Thats why they are called "Timing Belts".
        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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        • #5
          Mine broke last year about 25K (metric) away from a magic 100K change interval and I'll tell you the car is then helpless without a dolly or tow truck after. It is not a huge ordeal to replace and if you do it now (before it breaks) you won't have to fuss around re-aligning timing marks etc. If you're leery of doing it yourself get a few jobber quotes; it's no big deal for folks that know what they're doing. Make sure you mark or record prominently somewhere when the belt was changed or the next guy is going to figure it is now going on 365000 kilometers without a change. More than likely yours was replaced at 200,000 k so you're safe for the time being. 100K is already a lot for a rubber belt to stay together and not lose some cogs.

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          • #6
            Weigh the cost of replacement againt the cost of a tow + replacement. Replacement cost is just the belt.
            You have time to look things over carefully, plan the work, gather necessary tools, shop for best price on a belt, etc.
            You don't need to remove the crank bolt like many cars, just the lower pulley.
            Gaining access can be a problem. Some need to loosen engine mounting bolts and lower engine a bit for clearance. Work from underneath. Need to remove plastic splash guards.
            Good luck.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              I have a kit coming for a few weeks now and it is not here!! I really hope to change it befor it breaks as it is loose now and cracked between every cog..
              so loose I can slip it off the cam pully!!

              How this thing runs and runs so well is a mystery only you guy I am sure understand.

              The belt is the original as it was never changed when I got the car, a new one was in a box and the guy said I NEED to do it but I gave that belt to my buddy when his broke..

              I will post pics of the old vs new belt soon.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bassman View Post
                I have a kit coming for a few weeks now and it is not here!! I really hope to change it befor it breaks as it is loose now and cracked between every cog..
                so loose I can slip it off the cam pully!! How this thing runs and runs so well is a mystery only you guy I am sure understand.
                The belt is the original as it was never changed when I got the car, a new one was in a box and the guy said I NEED to do it but I gave that belt to my buddy when his broke..
                I will post pics of the old vs new belt soon.
                Yes indeed. That belt (or pictures of it plus the name of the manufacturer and some sort of proof of service/mileage interval (for frugal folks that really seek durable belts)) belongs in a museum or in an automotive textbook of 'what to look for' with regard to 'well past their prime- but not yet broken' parts.

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                • #9
                  I would really like to see pictures on the belt and the numbers to see if anybody can date exactly how old it is

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                  • #10
                    Took 3 hours because I was under the impression that the crank bolt was not to come out.. but that big flange just would not come off!!

                    I took my time and it went well. It runs and as you can see the belt I took off was old, how old???? not sure if it turned out to be original but did need to be changed.




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                    • #11
                      As far as I know, mine is also original and I have 250,000. Maybe I should also consider changing it.
                      Matt
                      -96 Aspire - 175k miles
                      -93 F150 XLT - 109k miles
                      -13 Focus SE - 7k miles

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mapquest View Post
                        As far as I know, mine is also original and I have 250,000. Maybe I should also consider changing it.
                        Very simple answer: Yes.
                        Towing charge and inconvenience will easily exceed the cost of DIY replacement.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bassman View Post
                          Took 3 hours because I was under the impression that the crank bolt was not to come out.. but that big flange just would not come off!!

                          I took my time and it went well. It runs and as you can see the belt I took off was old, how old???? not sure if it turned out to be original but did need to be changed.



                          I used to do hoses for Gates for a little bit (About a week) and the belt has the same identifier for a hose made in Poplar Bluff but they don't do Belts there so I am not sure. A friend might be able to decode it if they use a similar code to the hoses.

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                          • #14
                            Re: 265000k on my timing belt .... should I change it?

                            that belt was manufactured 11/22/05

                            Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by B3Festiva View Post
                              that belt was manufactured 11/22/05

                              Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
                              Curious> How did you know the date? Cross reference the numbers?
                              Dan




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