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  • Stranded... What fun...

    Well, my gf and I were coming home from a party about two hours ago, and suddenly, Trixie dies going 45 mph down the road, rolling to a stop at a Chase parking lot. Perfect timing, seeing it was 1 in the morning in a not so friendly neighborhood. I tried diagnosing until the gfs sister picked us up, but without much avail.

    Here's what I do know:
    It died going down the road without really any warning. No CEL, no sputtering, temperature fine, and I just put gas in a couple hours before.
    It will crank, but won't start at all. The cranking seems fast and harsh, like a broken timing belt. But I checked the oil fill cap and the valves are moving.
    No spills that I know of underneath the car.
    Lights and radio work fine.
    Also, I should mention that I opened up the gas cap and listened for the fuel pump, in which I didn't hear it turn on or off. I had just replaced my tank several days ago and after reinstalling the old pump/sending unit, my fuel gauge no longer worked. Maybe it might have something to do with that. But still, it seems odd.

    Now I have to figure out how to get it home, and how to identify the problem. Any thoughts on this guys?
    - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
    - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
    - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
    - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
    - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
    - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"



  • #2
    Since your gauge doesn't work I would look at the connector that you unhooked by the the pump. The best way to hear the pump is to jump the test connector by the brake booster.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hmm... I will try it when I get the car down here tomorrow. I should probably grab some connection cleaner. It just seemed odd to die like that. It almost screams timing belt, since the few reasons my cars have died on the road are belts, but yet the cam turns.

      Also, this may sound a little silly, but how exactly do you jump the test connector. I always just had a friend turn the car on while I felt for the relay to click, unless that's what you mean.
      - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
      - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
      - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
      - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
      - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
      - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


      Comment


      • #4
        There's a T-shaped connector with the other ones by the brake booster. I use a U-shaped sliver of copper but a paper clip can be used. It's the first thing I do when there's a problem. You can hear the fuel in the rails. Doesn't mean the injectors are opening though. Pull the center spark plug wire and stuff it near a ground while you crank and have someone observe spark. If there's spark shoot some starter fluid into a intake passage and replace hose before starting.

        Comment


        • #5
          Did you hit a bump? Check your inertia switch.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
            Did you hit a bump? Check your inertia switch.
            Not yet. That crossed my mind because we had to go get my stranded uncle and his family once 4 hours away in two trucks only to find out he accidentally tripped the switch in his van once we got there. Boy was my step dad MAD lol
            But I didn't really suspect my inertia switch since I didn't hit a bump or anything. Like I said, there weren't really any precursors or early signs, which is why I'm puzzled.
            There was a slight occasional high pitched squeak. I thought it might have been a belt or pulley at first, but it was coming from the left side (tranny side) of the engine. I just assumed it was my slightly noisy transmission making slight noises, and might not be very relevant.
            BTW thank you guys again for the synthetic gear oil recommendation. My tranny shifted like it had rocks in it before lol
            - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
            - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
            - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
            - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
            - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
            - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
              Did you hit a bump? Check your inertia switch.

              But I will check to be sure. Thanks
              - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
              - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
              - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
              - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
              - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
              - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


              Comment


              • #8
                My car (an EFI) died last year much as you described except that the fuel gauge was still reading. Turned out to be a suddenly-failed camshaft position sensor in the distributor.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bert View Post
                  My car (an EFI) died last year much as you described except that the fuel gauge was still reading. Turned out to be a suddenly-failed camshaft position sensor in the distributor.
                  That actually popped in my head too. I haven't changed one before but I have heard some stories about their failures on this forum, among other sensors. But I'm a little slow when it comes to which symptoms lead to which sensors, particularly on these pre-1996 cars which aren't scan tool applicable.
                  How do you check for a bad cam position sensor exactly?
                  - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                  - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                  - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                  - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                  - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                  - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sickfleming View Post
                    That actually popped in my head too. I haven't changed one before but I have heard some stories about their failures on this forum, among other sensors. But I'm a little slow when it comes to which symptoms lead to which sensors, particularly on these pre-1996 cars which aren't scan tool applicable.
                    How do you check for a bad cam position sensor exactly?
                    Swap with a known good disty.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Have you checked the fusible links?
                      -Zack
                      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sickfleming View Post
                        That actually popped in my head too. I haven't changed one before but I have heard some stories about their failures on this forum, among other sensors. But I'm a little slow when it comes to which symptoms lead to which sensors, particularly on these pre-1996 cars which aren't scan tool applicable.
                        How do you check for a bad cam position sensor exactly?
                        Easiest is if you have a good spare as georgeb says. If both lo-tension wires on either side of the coil are live when the key is on, and yet there is no spark when the engine turns, then the ECU is not responding because of lack of signal from the dizzie. The search feature will (should) lead you to an excellent post from some time ago as to how to electrically test the 4 wire plug on the dizzie for a working sensor.
                        If you have a spare dizzie be very careful not to mess up mating the key (which fits on the end of the cam) and/or re-installing the rotor. The rotor will fit on the shaft at any of 3 different positions (just another Ford bright idea).

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If it was the ignition control module the car may start now that the engine has cooled. Internittent stalling (cutting out) is a symptom of a dying control module. It's also called the transistorized points. On my car it's inside the distrubutor. On some Festiva's it's outside. A search of the repair forum will bring up information on the module.
                          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
                            Have you checked the fusible links?
                            Not yet. Unfortunately my car is still in that parking lot (hopefully), but I'll take a look. What is the difference between fuses and fusible links?
                            - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                            - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                            - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                            - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                            - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                            - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Fusible links are under the hood on the driver's side shock tower. They split the power from the battery into three circuits, one of which is engine control.
                              -Zack
                              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

                              Comment

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