1989 ford festiva wont start.?

[Dom]

I do not think this is for a 1989 it is showing the icm is the pic i stated before, just looking for verification on this. Before i buy it.

[1990new]

1989 ford festiva wont start.?

Do you know anyone nearby with a Festiva that you could borrow their icm before you go spending a lot of money for one. I have two extra ones. Where are you located.

[Dom]

I am in NJ. I am starting to think maybe this motor has been changed i am going to take pics and post them.

[FestYboy]

please do, this will clarify your issue. oh and BTW, 89 is the only year that has 2 totaly different fuel/ignition systems and it's all based on what transmission is in the car so when you look up parts, make sure you specify what transmission you have.

[scitzz]

In all my years on the board, I have learned MANY things. One of them is that FestYboy is rarely wrong. All you have to do to verify if this is the part or not is to look where he said it is...

"no, it's next to the coil on that bracket on the drivers strut tower. little square thing with a 3 wire plug." and if you unplug the wire and it looks like the pic....well, you get my point, right?

The ICM can easily give you this problem. It happened to me last July. IF you wander a junkyard, many Mazda's use the same one. Beats paying $40 anyday.

[Sagermeister]

I am having the same problems with my '89 Festiva.
Hopefully this info will help me fix the problem.

[Dom]

Ok here are some pics.. IMG_2452.jpg
IMG_2441.jpg

[Dom]

IMG_2447.jpgIMG_2450.jpg

[Dom]

IMG_2448.jpg

[Dom]

IMG_2451.jpgIMG_2456.jpg I also notice a splice from the ignition coil wire, does this all seem correct to go on a 1989 festiva fi auto..?

[Dom]

IMG_2451.jpg

[FestYboy]

ok, it appears that your '89 EFI uses a mix of carby and EFI parts in the ignition system. As i stated before, the ICM you posted a picture of is for a carby ICM. the coil you have posted is for an EFI car. this actually makes things easier to test!!!

you should (with a multimeter) be able to test for power to the ICM, pick-up coil continuity, and harness continuity. this will determine which part has failed and what steps you'll have to take to repair it. on the ICM there should be a + and - post as well as 2 posts for the pick-up coil wires (burried under the rotor) and a lone wire that IIRC is for tach signal. A careful looc at the harness will easily tell you which wires are which and what signal they're supposed to carry.

[Dom]

When checking for continuity on the ignition coil and harness how exactly should that be tested just want to make sure i am doing it right.


Thank you

[FestYboy]

ok, the harness/coil should be disconnected form its components to isolate the wire. so lets start with the coil: with it disconnected, test between the 2 pins on the coil (this is your Primary circuit). the number should be in the single digit ohms range. then, find the NON-POWER pin and test between that and the tower post (this is your Secondary circuit). you should see a number in the hundreds range (6-800). harness continuity should be in the TENTHS of an ohm range. a reading of "0" or OL is an open circuit and is BAD.

[Dom]

Ok from coil harness I got 86.8 ohms
From the coil pins I got 0.9 ohms
And secondary to pins I got 9.55 on the both