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Rusty Brake Booster

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  • Rusty Brake Booster

    The brake booster on my otherwise rust-free '93 is actually rusted through around the seam in a few spots. Could it break loose during a hard brake taking the master cylinder with it or do you think it will start leaking air first? This is not a kook test question.

  • #2
    Rusty Brake Booster

    I suppose it's possible it breaks or leaks. Don't know which would happen first but I do believe the vacuum is on the engine side of the booster (as opposed to the firewall side).

    Escort ZX2 booster bolts up but needs the clevis swapped from the factory booster to retain stock pedal height.
    Last edited by crazyrog17; 02-13-2013, 01:21 PM.
    -Zack
    Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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    • #3
      Originally posted by georgeb View Post
      The brake booster on my otherwise rust-free '93 is actually rusted through around the seam in a few spots. Could it break loose during a hard brake taking the master cylinder with it or do you think it will start leaking air first? This is not a kook test question.
      I don't know what to say here except to start looking for another one. Presumably you're talking about the booster itself and not the firewall of the car. Ford pickups from the 80s had a firewall flex problem with where the clutch M/C was and this led to low pedals and out of adjustment engagement. Ultimately, when the firewall did crack, clutch throw was hugely compromised. I'm guessing that a loose brake booster will have a similar effect. Can you install and oversized washer under the nut at that location? And if it's the firewall itself maybe you can make up a decent-sized mounting plate to better distribute the forces.

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      • #4
        Bert, I'm not sure who's misunderstanding the first post, but I'm thinking it's the brake booster itself that's rotting away. OP is wondering if it'll split in two or leak first.

        Interesting to learn about the firewall flex though!
        Last edited by crazyrog17; 02-13-2013, 02:35 PM.
        -Zack
        Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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        • #5
          My brake booster had rusted to the point of leaking. I had to replace it. New one is already rusting too
          -Rafe-

          Things I have for sale.
          Random Festiva Parts
          Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

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          • #6
            Paint the next one, I guess
            -Zack
            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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            • #7
              and replace the MC. Brake fluid leaking out the back of the MC will not show as a failure, but will promote rust on the booster.
              Last edited by FB71; 02-13-2013, 03:07 PM.
              Jim DeAngelis

              kittens give Morbo gas!!



              Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
              Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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              • #8
                I got a rust free booster from a fellow member from Kali-fornia.

                Before.

                After.

                You will have to make a decision.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 02-13-2013, 04:53 PM.

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                • #9
                  Get one from an Aspire ,they fit fine & are a little larger.
                  If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer!


                  '93 Green L - ' Tiva

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bert View Post
                    I don't know what to say here except to start looking for another one. Presumably you're talking about the booster itself and not the firewall of the car. Ford pickups from the 80s had a firewall flex problem with where the clutch M/C was and this led to low pedals and out of adjustment engagement. Ultimately, when the firewall did crack, clutch throw was hugely compromised. I'm guessing that a loose brake booster will have a similar effect. Can you install and oversized washer under the nut at that location? And if it's the firewall itself maybe you can make up a decent-sized mounting plate to better distribute the forces.
                    Front part hooks to back part with a twist arrangement. Rust is at seam. If unit breaks at seam, (from sudden, hard braking) rear half will stay on firewall, but front half, including master cylinder will move forward causing complete loss of brakes. Dual master cylinder no advantage in that situation!

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