Need Help Air Flow Sensor

[Zcallicutt7]

Hey guys. The other day I mentioned that I took the Air Flow Sensor off at the wrong location (by the dang screws and not the plug). So none the less. The car is running. But running like crap. It is having issues with studdering really bad on the first little bit of throttle. I really think I just need to replace the Air Flow Sensor but I wanted to ask you guys before I order one (dang $90 too).


Thanks,
Z

[Movin]

If you pulled on things going inside you might of unhooked the air temp sensor, it is just inside. maybe the vane adjustment? pop the plastic cap and look inside.

[Zcallicutt7]

If you pulled on things going inside you might of unhooked the air temp sensor, it is just inside. maybe the vane adjustment? pop the plastic cap and look inside.

I will check it out on my lunch brake. If everything is hooked up correctly and it's still running like crap. I guess I just screwed it up..... When I get the car RPM's up (parked or driving) it seams to be running just fine. It's just that first little bit of throttle almost cuts the car off...

[Movin]

I will check it out on my lunch brake. If everything is hooked up correctly and it's still running like crap. I guess I just screwed it up..... When I get the car RPM's up (parked or driving) it seams to be running just fine. It's just that first little bit of throttle almost cuts the car off...

You will see a crescent with the air flow zones on it and a position sensor that tracks the movement of the vane. You can play with the vane a little while the car is running to determine if it is rich or lean. You will be able to force a nice smooth idle IF nothing else is wrong. If you find that leaning it does the trick then you may have done something to change the adjustment. Take a sharpy and scribe where your adjustment is now so that you can return to your current setting if that becomes necessary. Move the adjustment until the sensor is at the same place you forced it to, you can also do this with the car running to verify what you are doing.

If you have to richen the mixture to force a good idle look your intake system over REALLY well for any possible spot air could sneak in. Adjust if you have to but make sure your fuel pump shuts off with the engine off but the key on . A richer adjustment put you into the area where the fuel pump is switched on, another circuit that works with an eccentric and a set of points.

This is rebuilder set-adjusted for life adjustments but you may have done something, this may save you some dollars.

[Zcallicutt7]

You will see a crescent with the air flow zones on it and a position sensor that tracks the movement of the vane. You can play with the vane a little while the car is running to determine if it is rich or lean. You will be able to force a nice smooth idle IF nothing else is wrong. If you find that leaning it does the trick then you may have done something to change the adjustment. Take a sharpy and scribe where your adjustment is now so that you can return to your current setting if that becomes necessary. Move the adjustment until the sensor is at the same place you forced it to, you can also do this with the car running to verify what you are doing.

If you have to richen the mixture to force a good idle look your intake system over REALLY well for any possible spot air could sneak in. Adjust if you have to but make sure your fuel pump shuts off with the engine off but the key on . A richer adjustment put you into the area where the fuel pump is switched on, another circuit that works with an eccentric and a set of points.

This is rebuilder set-adjusted for life adjustments but you may have done something, this may save you some dollars.

Yeah I pulled the AFM out, cut the silicone to be able to pop the black cap off. Sure enough (2) of the connectors were disconnected from the circuit board. Was able to patch it up by bending the connectors down a little and putting a dab of electrical silicone adhesive. It's running much better. Well enough to get the car home. Called Advance Auto Parts. They will have one in at 7:30am for me (best price & delivery).

This has been quite a learning process. (First time I messed around with an Air Flow Meter)

Thanks!

[Movin]

Like it or not you got a little education !

Glad you followed through and found it.

[Zcallicutt7]

Like it or not you got a little education !

Glad you followed through and found it.

Yeah, I picked up the new Air Flow Meter this morning on my way into work. I'll be ready for lunch to roll around to switch them out. I still am having trouble with the car warming up. I think my thermostat is stuck open... None the less. The car isn't getting up to temp. I'm probably not getting the best gas mileage since it's not warming up. And it's cold outside here. So my heat isn't working with the engine not getting warm enough..... But I already picked up an OEM thermostat this week. Hopefully that'll fix that issue.

[Movin]

That will make a big difference.

[Zcallicutt7]

That will make a big difference.

Even not heating up. I got 39.51mpg on my last tank

[Pu241]

Even not heating up. I got 39.51mpg on my last tank

Same as I'm getting with failed O2 sensor.
But mine heats up fine!
Are you sure it isn't heating up?
Do you have heat in the passenger compartment?
Don't go by the gauge unless you've cleaned or replaced the connector to the sensor.
They always read low.
I just cut the connector off and soldered the tinned wire to the senors, it is much more responsive.

[XFSE71]

I was trying to explain why my '93 was suddenly running so rich. Road testing in the valley it was stinking and chugging. No power, running rough and blowing black smoke. I had just recently replaced the cam seal, so blaming myself I thought out of time. I pulled the cover back and lined up the marks. Right on. Read the plugs, all were equally black. O2 steady @ .85 - .89V, MAN VAC 13"Hg. Oil is full of fuel. We’ve got problems. Dropped the exhaust @ the CAT checking for restrictions. (muffler rattle), all good. Power Balance showed 200 RPM drop per CYL.Thats good. Fuel test, I'm thinking dribbling injector(s) ... 42 PSI (KOEO) jumpered & 20 PSI something with full vac on the FPR, <1 PSI pressure drop in 2 min (Key Off), passed all fuel tests marvelously. I had noticed the FP was running KOEO

... pop the plastic cap and look inside.

Popped my VAF cap and found it was full of water, no doubt from my recent power wash job. You just never know where this little beauty will lead you. It may not be built Ford Tough, but it is Ford's official version of a Jap car, and I love it. Thanks Movin for the assist.

[XFSE71]

Good news/Bad news. Good news the VAF dried out using a fan with no apparent damage. Bad news it didn't fix the car. Still blowing black smoke, coded lack of O2 switch (17).

[Movin]

.85 o2 is about right for 13 inches vac.
Why is it so low?
Look at your cam timing again. Use a probe through the spark plug hole and verify TDC that way. Then check that #4 or #1 is centered on overlap.

[XFSE71]

Idle speed is way too low too. trying to run @~400 RPM. I can pick it up by holding back the VAF. Cam timing is still good. I didn't pull the VC to see the overlap. It must be base engine, but why can't i lean it out? I'm about to pull out "Occam's razor" on this one.

[Movin]

I was attempting to recheck timing by not using any marks.
Low intake vacuum means the engine is requiring more air to run than it normally needs. You were dead on checking for exhaust restriction. If that is okay revisiting cam timing in an alternate manner makes sense.
Anything else that you know about this engine that may cause low vacuum?

Running rich could be the cause rather than the symptom but the injection system is pretty well checked over, with no change in injectors?