Speciality Tools - Service Manual

[Old Geezer]

I am working on a 1993 Festiva. Will have to put in a new clutch soon. In reading through a service manual they mention various tools such as:
1. Differential Plug T87C-7025-C
2. Three Bar Support D88L-6000-A

I can make a version of the Support as have others have (if you look through the threads). THe differential plugs keep fluid in when pulling the shafts
from the transaxel.

Just wondering if anyone has found the Ford tools. I can't locate any so far anywhere.

Might be a help to some to use this thread to list any special tools you have invented, cobbled, or rigged to assist in repairing your jewels.

Any thoughts?

[Movin]

Just stick the clutch in. It is important to machine the flywheel, to use a disk alignment tool , to lightly lube input shaft with something durable like brake backing plate lube. Brake clean the new surfaces before the cover goes on. Pop the right CV shaft and leave the left one in to hold the gears, and now is a good time for new transmission oil.

While the trans is out check your engine for coolant and oil leaks, you get a view you can never get and easy access as well!

[Old Geezer]

Thank You sir. Should be a lot of fun. Guess I'll check the timing belt/tensioner while I'm at it.

[Festy46]

I am working on a 1993 Festiva. Will have to put in a new clutch soon. In reading through a service manual they mention various tools such as:
1. Differential Plug T87C-7025-C
THe differential plugs keep fluid in when pulling the shafts
from the transaxel.

For the "differential plug", I just use a couple old CV joint stub shafts with the cir clips removed. (The part that is already in the transmission, but with the long part of the axle removed) Always keep at least one axle in the transmission at all times. You won't like what can happen if you take them both out and then rotate the input shaft. As far as the part about using the differential plug to keep the oil in, you're better off to drain the transmission first. Even if you are really fast, oil is going to run out between the time you remove the axle and install the differential plug and just make a mess.

[TominMO]

Also, this is the best time to replace the rear main seal. Do it for sure, unless you know it's been done recently.

[Old Geezer]

Found a DIY on the site topic : DIY: Remove and replace a manual transmission in a Festiva
Under the section BOTTOM SIDE step 19 says "remove both CV axles".
Seems to contradict previous warning that I won't like what happens if I do and then rotate the input shaft.
I try to be sure I understand as best as possible what to do before I make a bad condition much worse by doing the wrong thing.
Reading the shop manual didn't help that much either.
Do the axles have to both come out or as MOVIN suggested I can leave the right (passenger side?) one in?
Thanks to all for the maintenance suggestions with the clutch out. I will follow them all.

[1990new]

The Serivce Manual say to take both out and that's what I've always done. You could leave the left one in but you have to contend with moving the transaxle around with it still attached. (It's your choice.) As stated before, don't worry about the fluid plugs, drain the transmission fluid first. You definitely should put some type of rod back in through the shaft hole to save yourself an unbelievably big headache in the event the gears should fall. The gears can fall due to wear and tear on the spider gears resulting from high mileage. In any case, be sure to put a large screwdriver or some other type of shaft in the hole for insurance. The end of an old half shaft is ideal. I have an old clutch alignment tool that I saved just for this. Careful not to damage the seals when you pull out the axles unless you plan to replace them. If you have had any leaking around them, you will want the replace them while you have the axles out.

[Festy46]

The reason you don't take both axles out at the same time is because the axles hold the spider gears in position in the differential. If you take both axles out, the spider gears can rotate out of position and fall into the bottom of the transmission. If this happens, you have to take ALL THE GEARS out of the transmission to get to the differential assembly which is under all the regular transmission gears. There is no other way to get the spider gears back into position (voice of experience).

You may be able to do it the way Movin suggested, but I have always removed both axles, but not before putting something in one side of the transmission. You can use something like a short piece of a broom handle if it is very close to the size of the axle, just make sure you secure it so it doesn't fall out. The way the gears fall out with no axles is by one moving to the bottom while the other moves to the top at the same time. So if you have something in one side, that gear can't move up or down. And since the side with something in the axle hole can't move up or down, neither can the side with nothing in the axle hole. Thus you only need something in one side.

If you remove both axles and put something in one side, put the good axle in the other side first when you re-assemble. Don't remove the "dummy" axle first and put the good axle in that side or you run the chance of bumping the gears out of position.