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Festiva Thermostat Replacement

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  • Festiva Thermostat Replacement

    I'm trying to replace the thermostat.

    I've never done one of these before. I tried looking up some information on the internet, and the only sources I found were unreliable, and said that the only thing needed was to followed the upper radiator hose, and it should be there.
    They said only two bolts needed to be undone. I found the housing (I think), but it looks to me like there is more than two bolts that need to come off. It's late, and I need to use the car tomorrow, so I just wanted to make sure this is right. Does anybody have any pictures, or can confirm that this is correct?

    BTW:
    I'm replacing the thermostat with part #41492 which is a mazda 323 2 stage thermostat that I heard was a good replacement.
    Last edited by Flw Sock; 02-20-2013, 09:24 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Festiva Thermostat Replacement

    Use a bit of RTV to hold the thermostat against the block. If it slips out as you are replacing the housing, you will crack the housing.

    Smaller port goes up.

    Other than that, its same as any car.
    Only two bolts.
    Last edited by Huli; 02-20-2013, 10:14 PM.
    HULi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------> Any-where, any-way, any-time.
    "CL4P-TP" - 93 Festiva L

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    • #3
      Don't sheer off a bolt, that is what happened to me, I ended up having to jbweld the housing back on since I couldn't get the stud out of the block.
      1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
      2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
      1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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      • #4
        Re: Festiva Thermostat Replacement

        Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
        Don't sheer off a bolt, that is what happened to me, I ended up having to jbweld the housing back on since I couldn't get the stud out of the block.
        Ouch
        HULi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------> Any-where, any-way, any-time.
        "CL4P-TP" - 93 Festiva L

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        • #5
          When in doubt clean bolt heads or nuts with penetrating oil (WD-40, Release all, or even paint thinner aka universal solvent) and scrub with small wire brush before applying tools. I did mine but it was years ago so I can't remember details. It's described in the Haynes manual for the Festiva/Aspire. There is a fibre gasket between the metal parts which may necessitate prying the metal parts apart once the bolts have been removed. Then the remains of the gasket have to be scraped from the metal without scarring the metal. Again, peentrating oil or solvent will help. As mentioned do not overtighten bolts as soft white metal can break. Just snug up the bolts and give a bit of extra turn to keep from leaking. If it does leak you can just tighten the bolts a little more. Follow the instructions in the box to make sure the new one is not upside down because then it won't open.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            What's wrong with the old one?

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            • #7
              1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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              • #8
                Tell me again why one should use the two stage thermostat instead of just a single stage thermostat?

                I installed a single stage 150 degree low temperature Mazda 323 thermostat because I am only doing warm weather driving.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 02-24-2013, 01:42 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                  Tell me again why one should use the two stage thermostat instead of just a single stage thermostat?

                  I installed a single stage 150 degree low temperature Mazda 323 thermostat because I am only doing warm weather driving.
                  I heard the 323 2 stage was better, and I drive in cold weather.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by denguy View Post
                    What's wrong with the old one?
                    I think it is stuck open, I never get any hot air. I'll let the car idle for an hour, then turn on the heat for 2 seconds and it becomes cold again. The engine never gets hot, even after driving for two hours with the heat off.

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                    • #11
                      have you checked your heater core for flow?
                      Trees aren't kind to me...

                      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                      • #12
                        I agree, seems like you have more than a T Stat issue. Even though our cars run cold in winter. After all that time driving you should be getting something for warmth from the heater.

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                        • #13
                          It was a T stat issue. I put a new T stat in boiling water with the old one. The old one is actually stuck CLOSED, and won't open much, barley anything.

                          However,

                          Even after being VERY gentle and taking my time to make sure it has been right, I cracked the stupid housing. Are aspire ones compatible, or mazda 323's? I have to call around tomorrow morning, all the auto stores around me are closed, and rockauto doesn't have one.

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                          • #14
                            If it is stuck closed and you still have zero heat. You definitely have bigger problems.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                              Tell me again why one should use the two stage thermostat instead of just a single stage thermostat?

                              I installed a single stage 150 degree low temperature Mazda 323 thermostat because I am only doing warm weather driving.
                              What? Even In warm weather I want want my engine to run at least 185 deg. And my 1.3's that had single stage thermo's all ran rich. And couldnt even melt the ice on my windshield.
                              Originally posted by Flw Sock View Post
                              I heard the 323 2 stage was better, and I drive in cold weather.
                              Yes, you read right.You want that unit installed. Thats what the Mazda engineers called for in our engines. And I have your housing come by and I'll walk you through the install.
                              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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