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  • Burning Oil after extended idling

    When the engine is up to temperature, and when the engine idles for a long period of time, the next time I accelerate I leave a fair sized cloud of oil smoke for the next quarter of a mile until it all burns off.

    Idling is the ONLY thing that ever causes my engine to burn oil, but only during acceleration after the long idle.
    Although if the engine is up to temp and idling I do smell burning oil but no smoke, but I always assumed that is just the leaky valve cover gasket leaking a bit of oil onto the exhaust.

    Now I heard that oil can get sucked up through the PCV valve, so I removed the hose and there is oil residue on the inside of the hose and oil on the intake manifold where the hose connects.
    I replaced this valve a few months ago, but back when I replaced it still burned oil after long idles. I shook the valve and I can here the valve rattle so it isn't stuck, but it is a cheap MasterPro valve from O'Reilly's, I don't think that has anything to do with it, but it might.

    Anyone have any ideas why I am burning oil? Google was no help, the only people with the same problem on other vehicles had engines with turbos.

    Thinking about just installing a catch can, because it is real embarrassing pulling away in a cloud of smoke.
    Last edited by TorqueEffect; 02-21-2013, 02:43 PM.
    1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
    2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
    1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

  • #2
    valve stem seal.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah, kinda sounds like valve seals. Also, If your engine has a fair amount blow-by, You may be sucking oil into the intake duct that runs from the air box to the throttle body. There's a short hose that runs from the valve cover to the side of the air duct. It's supposed to be a fresh air intake for the PCV system. If you have excessive blow-by (crankcase pressure) it will actually force oil vapor into the intake duct. If you pull the duct off, you may find oil standing in the low part of the duct, in the VAF meter and in the throttle body.
      Brian

      93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
      04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
      62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

      1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
      Not enough time or money for any of them

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      • #4
        Ouch, the engine only has 130k on it. =/

        Oh well, guess I will just get used to it using oil.
        I don't have the time or money to be having any head work done. Though once the engine does go, a B6 is going in there, not another B3.

        But I can say the blow-by isn't that bad yet, I have had the air duct and hoses off from the VAF to the throttle-body not too long ago and there was no standing oil, plus the throttle plate was clean. The only blow-by there seem to be, is through the PCV, so I will just install a catch-can there. bout $20 off of ebay, and will look nice.
        1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
        2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
        1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

        Comment


        • #5
          Valve stems are about the easiest things to replace, and super cheap.....if you are able to work on it yourself.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by koRnhead View Post
            Valve stems are about the easiest things to replace, and super cheap.....if you are able to work on it yourself.
            Huh, you are right, it doesn't seem too bad. Just watched a video of a guy do it on youtube on a chevy pickup.

            Just looks like removing the valve cover, rocker arms, setting the cylinder to TDC then compress the cylinder with air, then using a valve spring compressor to remove the valve spring, then a case of just pulling to old seal off, and slipping a new one on.
            1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
            2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
            1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

            Comment

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