Heat is not working.?

[Dom]

It is good to have some high quality pin extractors.
It is easy to remove them from the connector, hold them with some needle nose pliers while you use the mini Dremel wire brush to clean them up, and then snap them back in.

Thanks, that's a good idea. Will do

[nitrofarm]

It is good to have some high quality pin extractors.
It is easy to remove them from the connector, hold them with some needle nose pliers while you use the mini Dremel wire brush to clean them up, and then snap them back in.

Wow they are real proud of those.

[bravekozak]

It is good to have some high quality pin extractors.
It is easy to remove them from the connector, hold them with some needle nose pliers while you use the mini Dremel wire brush to clean them up, and then snap them back in.

[Dom]

The fan switch sensor is a ground control for a "normaly closed" relay, once the engine gets to temp, OR the wire is removed, the ground goes away from the relay and it closes, allowing current to flow from the ground side of the fan TO ground. At least that's what you describe by having constant 12v to the fan. (plus it's easier on the relay). so, what you need to find with your test light is probe the ground wire of the fan with the test light attached to the POSITIVE battery terminal. With the key on, remove the t-stat switch wire (which should activate the relay and make the test light glow BRIGHT). if the light doesn't glow, there's a break in the line, if it glows dimly, there's a corosion/poor ground issue that needs addressed.

Yup,, that did it the connector was badly corroded there was no power up to the fan when it was plug in, I probed the line with it connected to the fan and before the connector there was 12v and connector To the fan nothing ,I took apart the connector and it was badly corroded. I scraped as much as I could and fan came on I will be rigging up a new connector..
Thanks again for everyone's input

[bolokid]

I would replace the relay. Rockauto - $42.00.

[Bert]

We have the 2 stage motorcraft in my Sons Festy & the Mazda 2 stage in my Blue Spire.And when its zero outside (like the past couple nights) the heat is not so good on either of these cars. Now on my White Spire I have the 2 stage from O'Reillys and it will warm you up no matter what the temp outside. All three cars have the B3. Just a little FYI for you Gents....

I presume you're talking Aspire. Kia/Ford/Mazda must have learned something from their experience with cold Festys during 5 years in order to engineer/install better heat exchangers in Aspires. "The heat is not so good" is a far different comment than "Heat; what heat?" I drove a parts donor Aspire from Montreal to Ottawa a few years ago and was amazed/astounded at how much warm air was available from a B3.

[FestYboy]

The fan switch sensor is a ground control for a "normaly closed" relay, once the engine gets to temp, OR the wire is removed, the ground goes away from the relay and it closes, allowing current to flow from the ground side of the fan TO ground. At least that's what you describe by having constant 12v to the fan. (plus it's easier on the relay). so, what you need to find with your test light is probe the ground wire of the fan with the test light attached to the POSITIVE battery terminal. With the key on, remove the t-stat switch wire (which should activate the relay and make the test light glow BRIGHT). if the light doesn't glow, there's a break in the line, if it glows dimly, there's a corosion/poor ground issue that needs addressed.

[Dom]

if you have constant 12v to your fan, then the relay is ground controled, they can be suseptable to corrosion (failure). you can try 1 of 2 things: new relay, OR, remove the relay and have it opperate in a power side switch mode to help descale the contacts... i vote for method #1.

What does that mean (power side switch mode) also which one is the relay there are two connectors with a rubber boot over them.

[FestYboy]

if you have constant 12v to your fan, then the relay is ground controled, they can be suseptable to corrosion (failure). you can try 1 of 2 things: new relay, OR, remove the relay and have it opperate in a power side switch mode to help descale the contacts... i vote for method #1.

[Dom]

The clicking is your relay....just wire it to a switch if your so worried about the fan. Problem solved.

Does this mean the relay is bad, because I am getting 12v to the fan and verified the fan is work by jumping it out someone mentioned if you take the t stat sensor off the fan should run its not doing anything and when I probe that t-stat wire connector it's a dim light and the relay clicks .

Thanks

[nitrofarm]

I agree with Bert here, even up in Wisconsin I need to block off the radiator when it gets below 10 degrees or so. Doing that, I can run between 190-195 on the temp gauge. Which will make enough heat to warm you up. A good thing on my morning commute at 3:30 AM.

We have the 2 stage motorcraft in my Sons Festy & the Mazda 2 stage in my Blue Spire.And when its zero outside (like the past couple nights) the heat is not so good on either of these cars. Now on my White Spire I have the 2 stage from O'Reillys and it will warm you up no matter what the temp outside. All three cars have the B3. Just a little FYI for you Gents....

[koRnhead]

The clicking is your relay....just wire it to a switch if your so worried about the fan. Problem solved.

[Dom]

can anyone think of anything im kinda stuck...

[Dom]

My fan is not turning on when the connection the fan connector to the sensor it makes a clicking sound and will not turn on. And when I take the positive terminal on the battery and tap the positive side it also makes a clicking sound any ideas why it can be

[koRnhead]

I agree with Bert here, even up in Wisconsin I need to block off the radiator when it gets below 10 degrees or so. Doing that, I can run between 190-195 on the temp gauge. Which will make enough heat to warm you up. A good thing on my morning commute at 3:30 AM.