exact part name?

[Winfield1990]

sounds good thanks for the tip , I always thought 1 tablespoon was a little low but just went by what I read. I didnt ever want to add more incase I was to mess something up... Adding it in and then cranking it over before actually testing sounds like a great way to make sure theres always enough without having too much.

[Winfield1990]

Well I got my head off , and from what I can tell the cylinder walls look good , the pistons look good , the rings althought using a pretty thick oil look good... Put some 15-40 synthetic on them and cranked it over a few times by hand didnt really see any air bubbles or the oil level really drop much at all.

The head gasket had a few rusty spots on it still cleaning the head and then gonna try to check it out the best I can to make an educated guess on whether need to get a new head , machine shop , or put it back on.

[FestYboy]

what do the valve faces look like?

[Winfield1990]

I'll see if i can get a photo tomorrow , but they look pretty good to me. After cleaning them up came to the conclusion that I should just be able to slap on a new head gasket hopefully with no issues after.

BUT until then , they basically looked like these do from a quick google search comparison

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii84/Moonrise_set/300zxrebuild/WP_000159.jpg

[bravekozak]

Do a valve job with new valve stem seals have the head checked for flatness, get a new head gasket and bolt her back on.

[FestYboy]

sorry, i should have specified.... the sealing faces where the valve seat and valve face mate... we're looking for pitting or scaring of the seat or face, something that would allow a leak of compression pressure.

also, since you're this far into it, it would take very little time to remove the oil pan and pull the piston assemblies to clean out the ring lands....

i suggest you invest in a quality torque wrench or borrow one, even if just for the head replacement.

[Winfield1990]

yah I was going to remove the pan and clean real good and check things out a bit , but yah while im at it might as well good the whole way , never gotten this involved with engine disassembly before , just head removal and engine swaps. Going to be cool to get involved

I have a 250lb torque wrench from gear wrench

[Winfield1990]

having a time getting the oil pan loose , 20 year original gasket seal is a formidable opponent.

[FestYboy]

i recomend you invest in a 3/8" torque wrench, they'll be more accurate at the lower torque values needed for these engines than the 250 Lb unit you have now (undoubtedly a 1/2" clicker style).

if there is a Horrible Freight near you, get their digital torque adapter: quantitative reviews state that it is very accurate at all values up to it's limit. and it's inexpensive!

[Winfield1990]

that digital one sounds real nice , we dont have one anywhere near us. Ive never even heard of anybody around here taking a long trip to go to one. Theres always the internet though.

a smaller torque wrench is definitely something I need to add to my tool bags.. Basically ready to pull the motor/tranny from the car just got to unhook like 2-3 more things , figure ill go ahead and pull everything get it all cleaned up cause of the oil thats caked everywhere and think I have a tranny leak need to sort out anyhow. clean up the engine bay , maybe see about getting a good engine/tranny high temp enamel paint put on them , try to remove some needless bracket weight and etc.

I think I may look around the for sale section a little bit

[Winfield1990]

I spent 2 hours trying to pry out the cv axles with no luck so I decided to drop the motor and transmission from the bottom instead alot of time wasted but atleast now the motor is out of the car , if I get a chance tomorrow maybe I can clean it up and do some inspecting. and finally get some photos.