I sure like mine. I have two of them and have my eyes on a couple of abandoned ones for toys. Just need more money.
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Rear tire almost fell off..!!
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Rear bearings are pretty quick to change once you've done this kind of thing a few times. There is a tall ridge on the inside of the drum, about halfway in, that interferes with being able to punch out the bearing races. Some drums have grooves cut in the ridge to allow the punch to contact the race whereas other drums don't have this feature. I use a carbide cutter in a Dremel tool to make my own slot.
If the grease seal is no longer good now is a good time to change that too. As to spindle nut, I think a trip to a U-Pull or wrecker is much cheaper! Take the old one with you when you go. You'd probably be surprised just how common (or uncommon?) these nuts are. Later model Festys use an ordinary nut with a slotted sheetmetal crown (same idea as a castle nut) that goes over and then a cotter pin goes through the spindle. As I said before, if you can find some of these, drilling through the spindle is a lot easier then I initially thought (it is not hard steel).
Good luck!
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[QUOTE=Bert;582357]Rear bearings are pretty quick to change once you've done this kind of thing a few times. There is a tall ridge on the inside of the drum, about halfway in, that interferes with being able to punch out the bearing races. Some drums have grooves cut in the ridge to allow the punch to contact the race whereas other drums don't have this feature. I use a carbide cutter in a Dremel tool to make my own slot.
If the grease seal is no longer good now is a good time to change that too. As to spindle nut, I think a trip to a U-Pull or wrecker is much cheaper! Take the old one with you when you go. You'd probably be surprised just how common (or uncommon?) these nuts are. Later model Festys use an ordinary nut with a slotted sheetmetal crown (same idea as a castle nut) that goes over and then a cotter pin goes through the spindle. As I said before, if you can find some of these, drilling through the spindle is a lot easier then I initially thought (it is not hard steel).
How can i tell if the grease seal is bad or good ?
Thanks
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-Originally posted by fastiva89 View PostHaha its all good. When I bought my first festiva I almost lost my rear passenger wheel. Sounds like the same problem your having
Same here, same side too.
I know my spindle was completely shot, threads were mangled, and the outer bearing fell out in pieces.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Last edited by WmWatt; 03-16-2013, 11:46 AM.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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Did you try the opposite? I know the computer at advance has them backwards. The one that the compuyer says is left is the right one. And you are correct on the left and right sides of the car.'89 L Charcoal
'89 L Red
'91 Ranger
'65 F100
Sepmer Fi
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Originally posted by fastiva89 View PostDid you try the opposite? I know the computer at advance has them backwards. The one that the compuyer says is left is the right one. And you are correct on the left and right sides of the car.
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[QUOTE=Dom;582362]Originally posted by Bert View PostHow can i tell if the grease seal is bad or good ?
Thanks
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