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Welded in axle??????

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  • Welded in axle??????

    My passenger axle started acting up and I acquired a new Empi to replace it. I searched the threads and learned to use two pry bars to pop it out of the trans axle. Well, it didn't work. Carried it to my favorite mechanic and he said "Sure, no problem" WRONG.............. He couldn't get it out. Carried it to my favorite transmission shop and he says the solution is to take the drivers side axle out and drive the passenger side out with a long bar. Just wanted to see if that is the proper repair procure.


    Thanks,
    Jack Byrd,
    1991 Capri
    1988 Festiva LX, 240K
    1970 Chev C10
    1977 Airstream Argosy MH

  • #2
    The one that works is proper! What you describe has been used with success.
    Of all the methods discussed over the years on here I suspect that the reason some methods do not work for some is the lack of the right type of wiggle that compresses the snap ring at the right time.

    When the snap ring is not in the groove any more but has wedged in the splines then brute force is needed to shear the ring.
    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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    • #3
      Sounds like fun. Not!

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      • #4
        Isn't the diff pin located between the two axle stubs?
        -Donny
        -1992 Festiva GL
        B6D/E-series.
        -1991 GL
        BP/Broken E-Series. Working on G transmission.

        -2011 Mazdaspeed3

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        • #5
          Originally posted by xaero_81 View Post
          Isn't the diff pin located between the two axle stubs?
          That is what I was thinking, maybe a long skinny bar?
          Barbie Car - '90 L-plus_2nd Gen SOHC B6+rear turbo @ 8 psi
          Festycul - '9? 5spd_full roll cage, completely gutted, hydro g-series, B6T @ 15psi, rocketchip ecu,Willwood master cylinder, Mit. Galant VR-4 rotors, Hawk racing pads, capri knuckles, 323 LCA's, BrideLow Max seats, 5pt. harness, lexan windows, fuel cell, aluminum radiator, 323 coilovers
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          WhiteGirl - '93 GL Immaculate shape, deciding what to build with it?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by xaero_81 View Post
            Isn't the diff pin located between the two axle stubs?
            Yeah.....that's what I believe as well. I thought of doing this technique when I had my engine hanging on the hoist and I couldn't get one of the axles out. I decided to look before I stuck a bar in the hole and it looked to me like the pin pretty much took up all the room. Not sure how you could get anything past the pin and be effective without hurting something.
            Brian

            93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
            04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
            62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

            1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
            Not enough time or money for any of them

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            • #7
              Yep, long skinny bar or screwdriver. Now, thats assuming you can get the opposite axle out lol. If you do get it out and go to wailing on the passenger side one with a bar or screwdriver from the back side, be very very certain that you are putting the tool past the diff pin, and up against the back of the stuck axle. I've used every single trick listed on this site at one time or another. Movin is absolutely right, the correct approach is the approach that works!
              No festiva for me ATM...

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              • #8
                greywolf, if you are talking about the halfshaft, then do what I did. A large screwdriver with a light pressure and a small hammer and tap lightly all around the bell, ringing it to center the circlip. It will pop out like butter. Don't take out both halfshafts or the gears will fall down inside the transaxle and you will have to disassemble it. There is no need to reef the halfshaft out of the transaxle. I was pleasantly surprised the first time I did it. There is a technique to doing it. If the circlip has been damaged or tightly lodged you may have to ring all around while applying light pressure with a scewdriver, then turn about 45 degrees and try again until she pops. It's a feel thing.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 03-21-2013, 09:39 AM.

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                • #9
                  Mind over matter, visualize what the clip is doing too.
                  Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                  • #10
                    I wanted to pull the trans anyway and couldn't get the axles out first. So I pulled the trans with axles still in place. It was then easier to get at them with big pry bars and put some extreme pressure on them. It's amazing that something inside doesn't get damaged while doing this. Those clips are hardened spring steel that you have to shear or get to compress against the inner sharp edges of the gear splines. I wonder why "they" don't break that sharp edge inside the gears. I'm sure there would still be enough holding power with the clips. Probably possible "liability" trumps ease of maintenance in this case.

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                    • #11
                      In defiance of laws of physics and known qualities of spring steel Festiva circlips
                      get stiffer and stronger with each passing year!
                      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                        greywolf, if you are talking about the halfshaft, then do what I did. A large screwdriver with a light pressure and a small hammer and tap lightly all around the bell, ringing it to center the circlip. It will pop out like butter. Don't take out both halfshafts or the gears will fall down inside the transaxle and you will have to disassemble it. There is no need to reef the halfshaft out of the transaxle. I was pleasantly surprised the first time I did it. There is a technique to doing it. If the circlip has been damaged or tightly lodged you may have to ring all around while applying light pressure with a scewdriver, then turn about 45 degrees and try again until she pops. It's a feel thing.
                        you do not have to worry about that unless you rotate the internal workings of the trans while both axles are out. If you just remove them....there should be no issues.
                        "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
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                        There ain't no rest for the wicked
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                        • #13
                          I am only posting this as an information thread. They do in fact make a cv axle tool that screws on the end of a slide hammer that evenly applies pressure all the way around the joint. It seems especially handy on Mazda transmissions. I have one in my tool box. I seldom use it. But when i do it is a time saver.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Welded in axle??????

                            I can agree with denguy. I bought a five speed online and it was shipped with no axles installed. I even rotated it some while verifying it is in fact a five speed.

                            No issues at all. You'd really have to try hard to make the gears fall out in this even with the axles removed!

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                            • #15
                              I appreciate all this info. I'm trying to get into the transmission shop right now. He's put me off until Wednesday now. I doubt he has a slide hammer but I'm going to bring it up when I can get into the shop.
                              Jack Byrd,
                              1991 Capri
                              1988 Festiva LX, 240K
                              1970 Chev C10
                              1977 Airstream Argosy MH

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