Help, cannot get hub assembly off rear passenger side while trying to do bearings...

[jimdigs]

I did the drivers rear no problem. The passenger side wheel hub assembly just will not come off. I have been trying to beat the thing off of there with a plastic mallet but it just will not budge. Can I remove the mounting bolt from the strut without the thing coming down like a shot gun or would I have to compress the spring first? The reason I ask is that I was going to try and just remove the spindle with the four nuts that hold it on but the strut is in the way of one bolt. Any ideas on how to get this thing off would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

[WmWatt]

Does the wheel turn freely? Assume the reverse thread axle nut has been removed? As you saw from the driver's side only the axle nut holds the drum on the spindle. If the wheel turns freely the brake pads are not the problem. I'd spray penetrating oil around the bearings and spindle. If the wheel does not turn freely the brake pads are the likely culprit. Since the other side came off the hand brake cable is not on.

You might try remounting the tire and pounding on that for better leverage.

[jimdigs]

Thanks for the reply, yes the nut was removed and it is the reverse one. The wheel does turn freely, I think the bearing is just welded onto the spindle? I have been spraying the poop outta the thing with PB blaster. Hitting it hard towards me with a pretty big plastic mallet. Thing is beating me. I did check to see if the emergency brake was on or something but it wasn't but anyway its turning pretty free except for the grinding when it spins, which I/m assuming is just the bearing all seized up. I might try the tire thing. Thanks, any thoughts on the strut removal? Jim

[Movin]

The spring does not have to be compressed, but if you live where things can rust some have had trouble with the bolt spinning the captured nut. Spray that nut with blaster a day ahead of time. There is a hole in the trailing arm you can peek in and see it.

Zone or Oreily's might have a puller to loan.

[jimdigs]

Thanks Movin but I finally got the dang thing knocked off thanks to WmWatts suggestion on putting the tire back on for more leverage and beating it with the big mallet pictured.
Ok, now that its off I included a picture of all the rust where the inner wheel bearing seal sits, whats the best way to clean all that off? Also, check out the brake pads...wait, what brake pads, also look at my drum, its broke in a spot on the outter edge. The smaller bearing was all broke up as well, see photo of bearing on mallet. Time for some break pads and drum. Pain. Look how rusty everything is. Funny the other side was not near as rusty as this side. Thanks for the help guys. Any more suggestions from here will be appreciated. Jim

[crazyrog17]

Replace the brake cylinders while you're in there. Cheap insurance against leaks in the future.. and when's the last time the brake system's been bled? Recommended every 2-3 years.

[1990new]

I just finished putting new brake shoes on 1990 surfblue and I really have sympathy for you guys who live where you get all the rust.
It's been in Louisville, KY for the last four years and while that's not so far north, it was enough to cause the ebrake/adjuster joint to lock up.
Never have had that problem with any of my other Festivas.

I see the pictures of all the rust and the work some of you put into keeping these cars going and it really make me sad to see the Festivas with perfect rust free bodies going to the crusher around here.

[Festy46]

The best thing I've found to clean up a rusted shaft is a roll of emery paper. It comes in a roll about 1" wide and rolled up like a ribbon. You tear off about 16" and put it around half of the shaft and pull back and forth on the ends of the emery paper in a "sawing" motion. Continue working all the way around the shaft until you have the whole thing cleaned up. Hardware stores should have it and it may be called plumbers sand paper or check your auto parts store and explain what it looks like.

[jimdigs]

Thanks festy46 for the advice. I will give it a go.

[Movin]

Make sure that wheel cylinder in not leaking by pulling back the boot to see if any brake fluid is in there.
Dress the spindle until the new bearing slides on. Looks like you might need Marine boat trailer wheel bearing grease!
Pack the bearing and put extra grease in the area in between the bearings. Packing means the new bearing needs grease
worked from the big side of the bearing until it comes out the small side. It absolutely does not mean to dab grease over the
bearing. Brake backing plate lube should be put at the contact points for the shoes, where they rub on the backing plate and where the adjuster contacts. Lube the threads of the adjuster. There is a lot more, if you wonder about just ask!

[nitrofarm]

jimdigs,you dont have to get crazy cleaning that portion where the seal rides. Put the old drum on that shaft and you'll see its only a small area that needs dressing. I would be very very carefull with emery cloth,you dont want to create any flat spots. A Scoth Brite with brake cleaner will also get you your desired results.

[Bathtub Tom]

No-one's mentioned replacing that drum!

I hate to think what that hole will do to the new brake shoes, let alone the balance of the thing!

[nitrofarm]

No-one's mentioned replacing that drum!

I hate to think what that hole will do to the new brake shoes, let alone the balance of the thing!

I dont think he has any aspirations of reusing the Drum.

[jimdigs]

Thanks movin for all the extra info. I noticed that the emergency brake cable is cut to this side. Does that have anything to do with the self adjuster?

Nitro, I think I may have gone a little overboard on cleaning. Hope not to much. How will I tell if I went to far? Grease will start squirting out from behind?

I pulled another drum from the 90 festiva I have. I have to wait til tomorrow for brakes to come in. Then I can slap it all back together and hope all is well. supposed to rain tomorrow here in Michigan so I'll be getting wet putting brakes on. A fun Easter for me.

[FestYboy]

both ends of the self adjuster MUST be sloppy loose for them to work properly. the cut cable can easily repaired with simple parts from the hardware store.