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Ok, so I have a guy I know change my fuel tank out because he has a lift...

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  • Ok, so I have a guy I know change my fuel tank out because he has a lift...

    ..and it was much easier to get the tank out that way than by me crawling under the thing while being jacked up and trying to pull the tank out. So anyway after the swap I go and fill the tank and now my fuel gauge only goes up to about half full. So do you folks think it is just stuck or bent? I don't wanna have to take the pump back out unless I have to. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Jim The gauge worked just fine before the swap.

  • #2
    Originally posted by jimdigs View Post
    ..and it was much easier to get the tank out that way than by me crawling under the thing while being jacked up and trying to pull the tank out. So anyway after the swap I go and fill the tank and now my fuel gauge only goes up to about half full.....
    I agree with you, anytime I can get somebody else to do the work it is much easier. So is this a new tank, or did you R&R the float? Did you just take your tank out to clean it? What's the rest of the story? The temp gauge is on the same circuit. Is it OK? A meter on the fuel gauge will tell you a lot. EVTM looks for 3Ω full 110Ω empty. You guess how much fuel you have or spend $20 and fill'er up. Either way the resistance comes from the tank unit. There should partial voltage there KOEO, but remember there is a voltage regulator for both fuel and temp. ~12V is good, 0v is bad. If you ground the Y wire at the sender the gauge should peg after a couple of minutes. It is a bimetal spring with current flowing through it.
    '88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
    '88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
    '93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93

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    • #3
      Great news. You don't have to take the tank out again. Just roll back the carpet under the back seat and take out the sender. See what's causing the problem. I strongly recommend using a flashlight to look in the gas tank and not a match!

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      • #4
        It is pretty easy to pull the pump then plug in the power only and do a key on engine off test by moving the float up and down. It is under the little plate under the back seat as everyone is pointing out. About the match,
        i think insurance requires this little bit to appear accidental lol
        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info guys. I'll take the pump out and see whats up. I think the float thingy is bent or something. What is the black box thing, is that the float? Thanks again, Jim

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          • #6
            Yes, that's the float. Open your windows and hatch after you remove all the screws that are holding the sender in place. Have some newspaper on hand to catch any gasoline drops that may fall off the sender until the gas completely evaporates. Put a piece of cardboard over the hole so the gas fumes don't stink up the inside of your car while you test the sender.
            Last edited by bravekozak; 04-05-2013, 06:27 PM.

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            • #7
              I took the pump out and worked the float up and down and all is well. I believe when it was put back in the first time the float was hitting the wall of the little box it sits in. I placed it back in slowly and before seating I move the float back and forth and all looked good. I put everything back together and started the car up and was pleased as punch when my gas gauge kept going showing a little above 3/4 tank of gas. YAHOO!! This morning I drove around awhile to just make sure of things and it is all good. Thanks again fellow festiva humans. I now have 3/4 tank of gas left and have driven a little over 100 miles from when it was full. Love the gas mileage. My old automatic festiva was dying on me and finally did and was only getting about 30mpg.

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