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  • problem bleeding brakes

    My brake problem started with the brake pedal going to the floor when approaching a stop light. Fortunately there was no traffic in front of me. I got home by down shifting and also the brakes would work to a small degree if I pumped the pedal first. I replaced the master cylinder and bled it. But when bleeding the brakes no fluid would come out of the passenger rear and driver front brakes. The other two are fine. Any help would be appreciated.

  • #2
    That is what the proportioning valve does. Keep b;eeding. It must come out.

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    • #3
      Festiva's take a lot of bleeding. It helps to have a long length of clear hose attached to the bleed screw. It makes less of a mess and helps keep air from being sucked back into the wheel cyl. Keep the hose pointing up. Also helps to tell when old brake fluid is out of the system. And clean new fluid has filled the wheel cyl.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
        That is what the proportioning valve does. Keep b;eeding. It must come out.
        Yes, the L and R marked on the proportioning valve would lead you to believe that the brakes are split into left and right sides as they split from two lines into four from the master cylinder.. but they are actually split into front left - rear right on one valve and front right - rear left on the other. Not sure if this has anything to do with your problem, but it could.

        Keep bleeding, mine took forever too and i even pre-bled the master cylinder after it was installed.

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        • #5
          If you are gravity bleeding as I do it can be slow. I have to suck on the nipple to get it flowing.
          Last edited by WmWatt; 04-08-2013, 10:11 AM.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            Tried bleeding the wheels with a one-person bleeder I made from clear tubing and a syringe. Fluid wouldnt come out of the rear passenger or front driver wheels. Stomped really hard several times on the brake pedal afterwhich fluid would come out. Got all four corners bled. Took the car out for a test drive. The brakes worked very poorly. I stood on the pedal but the brakes would never lock up. The car felt like it just coasted to a stop. Not literally but the stopping distance was way too long. Tried again to bleed the brakes by having my wife pump the pedal while I was underneath the car. Again fluid would not come out of the rear passenger and front driver wheels even after stomping on the pedal again. I'm thinking that the issue lies with the proportioning valve but cant find one online or at the auto parts store. Any ideas are appreciated.

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            • #7
              try this: start with the right rear. loosen the bleeder and attach a length (aprox 2.5' ) of fish hose to it. drape it OVER the top of the drum and into a container. add some brake fluid to the container (enough to submerge the end of the hose). now slowly depress the brake pedal to the floor. release it quickly. repeat..... the pedal will eventually start to firm up and you'll feel the fluid pushing out. always maintain a full resivoir at the master. periodicly check the fluid level of the container at the bleeder.

              one man bleeders dont work well when the system is compleatly empty (just my experiance). the container and hose method keeps air from being re-introduced into the system.
              Trees aren't kind to me...

              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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              • #8
                If all else fails, hook up a vacuum cleaner to a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder.

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                • #9
                  If you think the proportioning valve is plugged you might try backflusing the two ports which are giving you trouble. Not knowing the interior configuration of the valve I would just disconnect the input line and then pump fluid into the lines at the problem ends with the syringe thingy. Might help.
                  Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                  • #10
                    ^^^^ another suggestion is to stick a fine wire in and try to dislodge whatever may be blocking the valve.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                    • #11
                      OK. I disconnected the brake lines at the master cylinder and did a reverse bleed of the brakes by using the syringe to force fluid from the wheel and out the other end. The brakes now work as they did before the master cylinder failed which still wasn't the best. A few days before my brake problem started the brake light on the dash came onand it is still on. At first I thought the e-brake switch was faulty but it wasn't. Any ideas?

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                      • #12
                        there is a switch in the brake fluid resivoir and it activates the brake warning light as well (if fluid level is low)
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #13
                          Take a close look at that proportioning valve, I know ALOT(read all but one of over a dozen I've seen) have a vertical hairline fracture between the middle line and the lines comming off on the driver side. Maybe it's sucking air and has been the culprit all along, but then again I'm usually wrong about this stuff. If you see blueish crusty stuff on there you know what happened.
                          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                          • #14
                            One-way bleeder screws are nice too; they have a valve in them that closes off so air can't be sucked back into the system.

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                            part # SB8100, size M8x1.0
                            Last edited by TominMO; 05-09-2013, 08:51 PM.
                            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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