Valve Stem Seals

[TorqueEffect]

Ok, since next paycheck I am going to be ordering a new valve cover gasket, and since the valve cover is going to be off, I thought I might as well change the valve stem seals since I do burn oil after hot idles.

I do know I need a valve spring compressor, and a torque wrench, but what else do I need?

The 89' shop manual shows this little seal installer tool, but have never seen such a thing, will I need this? Or is it just a tool that makes the installation more precise?

[FestYboy]

torque wrench???? nah, the VC gromets botom out and that's all the tighter you need to go with those. and the rocker arm shaft bolts have a torque, but you better have a good 3/8 torque wrench that goes low... like lower than 15 lb-ft. you'll also want to have a pencil magnet for the retianers and you'll need air and a way of pressurizing each cylinder so that the valves remain in the seated position.

as for installing the new seals, i used an appropriately sized 12pt socket.

you may find that using an OHC spring compressor does you better than a hand held unit.

[XFSE71]

Here is an "old" trick for changing valve stem seals. pull the plugs. get some clothesline rope (soft/flexible) insert the rope into the cylinder you want to work on. roll the engine over BY HAND. do not use the starter to roll the piston to the top. the rope will hit the valves holding them in position so you can pop the spring off. be sure to for check stem to guide wear while you're in there. that may be your cause for oil consumption @ idle. comes with clicking @ higher RPm. You'll have the rockers off so the valves will be closed when the roped piston comes up. The starter has too much force and will kill your engine, so turn it by hand. the soft rope will do the trick when you don't have air. just saying.

here is a spring compressor I use and a cheaper one that works too ... http://www.rjtool.com/valve-spring-c...FYdxQgod3mIAUA

[TorqueEffect]

Why doesn't the shop manual say anything other than just to move the cylinder to TDC?

It seems like the valve will just rest on the piston.

These are the official Ford instructions.

1. Remove the valve cover, as explained earlier in this section.
2. Remove the rocker arm shaft assemblies.
3. Turn the crankshaft until the piston of the cylinder to be worked on is at the top of its stroke. (TDC)
4. Compress the valve spring using Valve Spring Compressor T81P-6513-A and Valve Spring Compressor Kit T87P-6565-A or equivalent until the retainers can be removed.
5. Remove seats and spring.
6. Remove valve stem seal.

[FestYboy]

yeah, you can't let the valves move from the seated position (i.e. drop into the cylinder). SOMETHING must be used to keep the valves up, reguardless of what the FSM says.

[XFSE71]

Why doesn't the shop manual say anything other than just to move the cylinder to TDC?

It seems like the valve will just rest on the piston.

These are the official Ford instructions.

1. Remove the valve cover, as explained earlier in this section.
2. Remove the rocker arm shaft assemblies.
3. Turn the crankshaft until the piston of the cylinder to be worked on is at the top of its stroke. (TDC)
4. Compress the valve spring using Valve Spring Compressor T81P-6513-A and Valve Spring Compressor Kit T87P-6565-A or equivalent until the retainers can be removed.
5. Remove seats and spring.
6. Remove valve stem seal.

I usually don't read the manual until something doesn't work. Then you crack open the book. I'd worry that a valve may drop just 1/4" (6mm) causing problems with reassembly, maybe not though. Hey, it's in the book.