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  • Thermostat removal

    I've searched and read many of the thermostat related threads. I'm currently flushing the cooling system in my 3-wheeled Go-4 and it has gone fairly smoothly thus far (been a P.I.T.A though finding upper and lower radiator hoses that would fit!) What is the easiest way of of getting the thermostat housing off? I got a Murray's dual-thermostat unit to swap in, but it looks like removing the distributor is necessary to get access for the thermostat? I have no idea what type of coolant they had in it, either Asian makes read or a mixture of that and all-purpose orange? After my flush with GM Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner I'm putting in 50% Zerex G-05 and 50% distilled water.

  • #2
    This post has the Ford part numbers.
    Click on the part numbers, ask for the price and tell us, so we can all faint.
    They will fit perfectly.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 04-27-2013, 11:13 PM.

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    • #3
      How to remove? Two 12mm bolts hold the water neck (from the upper radiator hose) to the engine. You might benefit from the use of a flexible extension on your ratchet.

      Before you reinstall, put a couple dabs of superglue on the thermostat and install with the jiggly part up. If the thermostat gets wedged between the head and housing, the housing may crack when tightened down. Also, if presented with a self-adhesive gasket.. go to autozone and get one of their house brand gaskets. It features a rubberized coating around the inner diameter circle. Seals easily, especially with a light coat of gasket sealer on both sides, and only costs a buck.
      -Zack
      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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      • #4
        In regards to installation/removal, I know the process, just seems a tight space and wasn't sure if it could be removed without having to move the distributor to make clearance space.

        The hoses have been an adventure! First went to Napa and bought the upper and lower hoses for a '93 Festiva. Not even close to the ones my G0-4 uses (different bends and mine has 1 3/16" I.D. versus the Festiva's 1" I.D.) Went and got an Asipre lower hose, I.D. was right and it was the right "s" shape, but wrong angled bends. Went to O'Reilly's and looked at all their Gates hoses and found a lower hose that was almost perfect, just needed to trim a couple inches off (fits a 1997 Mazda 626). The upper hose I found, I trimmed it a couple inches too short (insert expletives) and that was for a 1994 Mazda 323. Tomorrow I'm gonna go back to O'Reilly's and get a Gates flexible radiator hose.

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        • #5
          Wh.. what is this G0-4 thing?
          -Zack
          Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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          • #6
            It's a Canadian-made 3-wheeled meter maid vehicle. It uses the B3 motor and 3-speed automatic transaxle & front suspension as the Festiva (which is actually my rear wheel drive suspension since the front wheel is on a motorcycle style fork suspension).

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            • #7
              Fancy! Good luck with your maintenance.
              -Zack
              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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              • #8
                That is really cool!! Better than a smart car! I use a electric ratchet 1/4" 10" extension and a wobbly
                on the end.
                Pulling the inner fender and the left rear tire may give easy assess.
                Or scribe the disty housing, as long as you leave the rotor in place
                it only goes back one way.
                Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                • #9
                  Was able to contortion my arms and wrists enough to reach the lower bolt with a wrench. Success! As I suspected, the thermostat currently one there is a single stage. Next problem: The friggin' thermostat is stuck to the block! Any suggestions as to the best method to breaking the seal of whatever is holding it? Penetrating oil and light taps from a small chisel/flat head screw driver and a hammer to try and free it?

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                  • #10
                    Going with the penetrating oil and tapping worked. Thank goodness! Filled up the system but ran out of time, so will test drive and top up tomorrow. Idled it for 10 minutes today and no visible leaks so far.

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                    • #11
                      The only thing a dual stage thermostat does is regulate the coolant temperature a little more precisely. To enjoy double the probabilty of failure, you must also pay double.
                      I would liken it to Epson five color inkjet printing cartridges or Mazda dual vacuum advance distributors.
                      Last edited by bravekozak; 04-29-2013, 05:36 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Hey, that is the first thing you learn in service writer jack the public school...Find a easy repair of something working fine , present the weakness and the solution, sell the job and rake in the long green!!

                        Actually i did it just to see if the cool little thing warmed up faster. It didn't and the first one refused to seal completely causing a cold engine!! So i did that fun little improvement twice and I guess had twice as much fun!!
                        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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