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help find an oil leak on 91 5 speed with a/c unit in the way CONTINUATION

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  • help find an oil leak on 91 5 speed with a/c unit in the way CONTINUATION

    FINDING OIL LEAK:
    1 Changed crank seal,
    2 changed crank seal again because we thought it went to easy the first time,
    3 check drain plug and changed oil filter (drain and refill using same oil) --- still leaking -


    requesting knowledge juncture up rising:

    the next step-------------- 4 changing the oil pan gasket ---HAS ANY ONE DONE THIS BEFORE? WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE?
    DOES THE MOTOR MOUNT HAVE TO BE TAKEN OFF AND RAISE THE ENGINE or CAN THE PAN BE TAKEN OUT WITHOUT
    TAKING MOTOR MOUNT LOOSE AND JACKING ENGINE UP?????

    (after the oil pan gasket is changed then valve cover and cam shaft seal will be in line if the oil leak is not found.

    buck zeplen

  • #2
    Pan can be removed with engine in place in vehicle, only thing you should have to remove/disconnect is the exhaust downpipe. Maybe the two small side brackets from the engine to the transmission and the torque converter cover plate if its an automatic. Only time I did one in the car was on a 5 speed and those two smaller brackets (14mm bolt ones) were already removed so I can't say for sure if they interfere or not.
    No festiva for me ATM...

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    • #3
      Buck, you didn't mention where the oil is on your motor. If you changed the crank seal, you must have thought it was coming from that side of the motor. I would recommend changing the cam seal first--it's cheaper and easier, and is a known leak source, just like the crank seal. Also it's more likely leaking from there than the oil pan gasket, IMO.

      Of course, do the valve cover gasket at the same time, another very common leak source. Spray Copper-Kote on the topside of the rubber gasket, where it fits into the valve cover.

      One seal that rarely gets changed is the rear main crank seal, because the tranny is in the way. Even when people install a new clutch (or have a shop do it), this seal is often forgotten. Never hurts to add seal conditioner from time to time, to try to slow down leaks that are more trouble to get at.

      Another leak source, on the driver side, is the O-ring on the disty. An easy changeout.
      NAPA part #: 727-2619-72222
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      Last edited by TominMO; 05-03-2013, 08:11 AM.
      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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      • #4
        Man Dude are you sure its the pan? I've ripped apart a lot of engines and have to say these B3's are really sealed WELL in this area. Did you check the cam o ring? The o rings get so dry after twenty years they turn to hard plastic.
        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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        • #5
          ^ JINXED ! Me type to sloooow
          Last edited by nitrofarm; 05-03-2013, 08:07 AM.
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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          • #6
            my crazy leak was coming from the bottom of the auto bell housing. Found out it was the rear main seal. damn transmission had to be pulled out. heck i pulled everything out -__- and changed ALL the seals.

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