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  • Torque convertor install

    Hey guys I just got my rebuilt motor installed and just finished installing the 3spd auto trans. Went to start it and I got no shifting. Everything looks good including the shift linkage. Is there a special technique when installing the torque convertor? I installed new gaskets, fluid and modulator. I also double checked to see if that hose was connected and everything seems good.

  • #2
    By no shifting do you mean it does not go into gear at all? Or it just don't ever shift up into 2nd and 3rd? Only technique I ever use on the torque converter is installing the bolts to factory specs. I think around 45ft/lb or so?
    No festiva for me ATM...

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    • #3
      There are splines that have to mesh (the converter drives the pump) but on 3 speeds its really easy to install. On some overdrives it can be a bit tricky.If you let the fluid drain for a really long time or had the valve body off some times it will take a minute to bleed out all the air. You also want to cycle between drive & reverse while its first started up (but dont rev the engine) till you know the fluid is at the right level. Other than being low on fluid,if you dont have drive and reverse after @ 1 min of idling somethings wrong. And most likely the pump spline isnt engaged with the converter. I'm not an expert by any means but I did work at a tranny shop for a while. And used to drag race using Ford C4's & AOD's.
      Last edited by nitrofarm; 05-05-2013, 09:37 AM.
      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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      • #4
        When I installed it. I attached the flex plate unto the engine then I attached the torque convertor to the flex plate. Should I have attached the torque convertor on the transmission first and spun it then attached it to the flex plate? This rebuild has gotten out of hand and this would be the third time removing the motor. 2nd time I bent the flex plate messing up the alignment. This time no shifting but starts nice! ...ugh..can I realign the torque convertor with removing the tranny or engine again?

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        • #5
          I don't recall any difficulty when Donny (xaero_81) and I had to install the flex plate and torque converter onto a donor engine.. Flex plate onto crankshaft, torque converter onto flex plate (had to turn over the engine a bit to reach each bolt from below the oil pan), and then mating trans to engine. A lot of wobbling and shoving happened when getting them back together.

          You installed a new modulator though. Have you tried adjusting it? I believe there's a screw under the vacuum hose running to it.
          -Zack
          Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jtugfestiva View Post
            When I installed it. I attached the flex plate unto the engine then I attached the torque convertor to the flex plate. Should I have attached the torque convertor on the transmission first and spun it then attached it to the flex plate? This rebuild has gotten out of hand and this would be the third time removing the motor. 2nd time I bent the flex plate messing up the alignment. This time no shifting but starts nice! ...ugh..can I realign the torque convertor with removing the tranny or engine again?
            The way you did it is correct. Maybe crazyrog is right @ the modulator?
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

            Comment


            • #7
              I haven't touched the modulator adjustment. When I rebuilt everything I also installed a new modulator. What does this adjustment do?

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              • #8
                And how do I adjust it?

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                • #9
                  Always install the flexplate to the engine and the torque converter into the transmission. Spin and work the torque converter in until you feel the splines and the pump lugs engage...impossible to do the way you installed it. Use a new front pump seal as this process can crack the lips of a used seal. No festy type converter uses a hydraulic lock up so you don't have to worry about getting that engaged in between the above two.

                  Check the converter and pump lugs while apart to be sure you did not damage them.

                  The only time you should see a torque converter bolted to a flexplate on an engine is when the engine is blown and locked up making it impossible to reach the converter to flexplate bolts while separating the engine and transmission.
                  Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                  • #10
                    @ movin..I've started the engine already. Do you think I've damaged anything? Can the torque convertor be adjusted the way you said or do I need to remove the engine and tranny again? What parts could I've damaged if I started the car?

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                    • #11
                      Sometimes it can damage the lug area or break the gear in the pump with the lugs. If you separate the engine and trans a couple inches you can feel it in but to me it is easier to just pull them clear apart. Pull the engine and trans on the ground or drop the trans if you have the car up. Don't worry about circular scratch marks from starting the engine, only worry if you are missing a chunk of metal or see a crack where the lugs engage. Use a light to look down in the hole.
                      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                      • #12
                        Thanks movin..btw would i have here or felt anything if the torque convertor was installed wrong? cause when i started it i didnt hear anything or grinding at all so i should be good right?..man im about to just have this car towed to a transmission shop and have them install it correctly. this will be the third engine removal >_<

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                        • #13
                          I have never heard a bad noise. Another clue is when you are bolting the converter to the flex plate you should have 1/2 an inch or so to pull the converter forward to the flex plate. You have nothing to lose but a little more time, get it out and drop that converter all the way home and stab the tranny. If something is broke you will not hurt it more than it already is and most of the time there is no damage done. Get er done!
                          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                          • #14
                            The vacuum line to the transmission runs down the front to the little screw in vacuum modulator. Where the hose enters it, there is a slotted pin that you can turn with a flathead screwdriver to adjust it. I don't know which way will advance or retard shifts, but that info might be in a service manual.
                            -Zack
                            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                            • #15
                              Thanks again. Where would the damage be if there is any? Would I see the damage onece I pull it out?

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