I'm just doing head gasket. Any pointers or special tricks?
leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on the head, it's heavier, but less to take apart and there's more to hold onto when moving it about. leave the dizzy on. drain the coolent BEFORE you do anything. have Copper Spray handy. have a way to pull the oil/coolent out of the head bolt holes. do an oil change BEFORE you start the car again.
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
My advice would be to not worry about how long it takes you. If you haven't done it before, then the most important thing is to do a thorough job and not have to do it again. Spend the time to get the head and block surfaces clean. Check the head for warp and/or have it resurfaced. It would also be a good time to install a new water pump and timing belt. If you're experienced at this stuff and have all the proper tools, etc., then you could easily do it in a day. However, if it takes several days or even a week, don't worry about it.
You can pull it with the manifolds still on but you'll need to pull the intake to get the valve cover off. It's a good time to make sure the coolant passages are clear to help out the idle control valve on warm up. There is also a support from the intake to the bottom of the block that's easy to miss. Check head with a straight edge and feeler gauge or you'll be doing this again if it's warped. You can check the block too but it's usually it's the head when it's been overheated.
40 minutes to change the mechanical fuel pump that was leaking. I had never done that before and discovered a couple vacuum lines disconnected and one that was plugged for some reason.. car runs waaaaayyy better. Im looking to eventually pull off the head while replacing as many gaskkets as possible.. hoping this thread will up my confidence.
You can pull it with the manifolds still on but you'll need to pull the intake to get the valve cover off. It's a good time to make sure the coolant passages are clear to help out the idle control valve on warm up. There is also a support from the intake to the bottom of the block that's easy to miss. Check head with a straight edge and feeler gauge or you'll be doing this again if it's warped. You can check the block too but it's usually it's the head when it's been overheated.
just need to rotate the throttle body out of the way (if cranking the engine by hand doesn't work, and i dont recomend that anyway because you want the engine at TDC when you tear the head off)
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
If you rotate the engine it is possible to get the valve cover out without pulling the intake on an EFI. Do it by hand.
True dat.
For those with Aspire engines, the throttle body is designed a little differently, and the valve cover comes off easier. Haven't needed to rotate the engine to get the intake valves out of the way.
90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand Disaster preparedness
You mean not everyone can take 2 years to rebuild an engine like me??? LOL
My nickname at work used to be "Powerglide", because I have 2 speeds....SLOW and STOP. But, I AM meticulous.
Comment