NO ignition power!!

[RhodeStiva]

so as you know i did the BP swap. now my car has a hard time cranking but eventually it does and when i get to where i am going, turn the car off and then try to restart it i get nothing no power in cluster or to turn over starter. i am going to try to jump start it this afternoon but i still get power to interior lights like dome and trunk. it happened yesterday to and i just check battery cables were tight, which they were, then tried it again and it started; but this morning it didn't start.


Could it be bad ground on negative battery? ( I have it grounded to car body with one of the bumper bolts in the trunk) ← my battery is located in the trunk with good connections battery looks good, not that old.

[shadetree]

Fuse links

[RhodeStiva]

i checked those also they are good. i have the upgrade ones and plenty extra in my car for the issue lol


i am thinking and hoping it isn't the ignition switch.

[Flyin4stroke]

Check all the grounds in the engine bay. Make sure you have your main engine/head ground to the frame. Put your ground from the battery to the "frame". There is a ground block by the passenger headlight check it.

[jawbraeka]

Check all the grounds in the engine bay. Make sure you have your main engine/head ground to the frame. Put your ground from the battery to the "frame". There is a ground block by the passenger headlight check it.

Just have a quick question while your on the topic, could you connect all the grounds together and make 1 grounding point at all?

[nitrofarm]

Rode sounds pretty straight forward to me. You have 25 old corroded cables & connections. Start with the main supply... Ground & positive battery cables should be replaced (if you haven't already). Also the main feed to the fuseable link (Its about 18" long) if any of these 3 are weak with green corrosion.As soon as they get heat soaked you are gonna have a hard time pushing amps through them during cranking(typical if you live in the south). This is a problem you are going to have to trouble shoot on your own(start pulling back all the electrical tape and look for the corrosion. You now have a motor that requires more amps to crank,this problem has been there for a while.You just didnt realize it with a 1.3. The stock battery cables and supply cable are to small from the factory imo. When they are mint its fine.But not 25 years later. I have pics on AMPING UP your cranking power just search my builds.Easy Saturday fix.......

[nitrofarm]

Just have a quick question while your on the topic, could you connect all the grounds together and make 1 grounding point at all?

Yes but not better...Two reasons, more wires = more clutter. Single ground point equals no power if that point fails.

[FestYboy]

^ yes you can

Rhoads, you need to check your ground from Battery to chassis and from ENGINE to chassis (add one or two of those for good measure), also make sure that there is no paint at ANY connection (positive, negative, paint at either will cause a no crank condition).

remember, it only takes .5 ohms resistance to cause a slow/no crank for a starting system (yeah, that's ONE HALF OF AN OHM)

clean and tight must be your montra ESPECIALLY since you relocated your battery.

[nitrofarm]

This is an Aspire but you can do the exact same with a Festy. The supply wires on these cars are very small,just barely adequate.You start adding a weak battery/corrosion and you are going to have weak cranking in extreme temps.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?47252-AMP-UP-your-Battery-power-amp-ground-supply