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sensor on bottom of festiva 5 speed. FIX WHAT IS IT?

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  • sensor on bottom of festiva 5 speed. FIX WHAT IS IT?

    Alright so there was a crumpled and bare wire right at the sensor which broke and fell off the rest of the way during transmission installation , One of the wires to it is broke flush so I dont see it being reliably fixed , so wondering exactly what this sensor is? If I take it loose will transmission fluid come out also.

  • #2
    I hope it's not your backup light switch! What color is the wire?
    Does it look like this?
    Last edited by bravekozak; 06-09-2013, 12:18 PM.

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    • #3
      it looks sort of like that , its near the shifter linkages. I dont remember color of the wire its way too hot outside right now , and I have my fuel pressure regulator off soaking it trying to get it to free up suspect that is my problem right now.

      is it impossible to find or really expensive?

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      • #4
        its number 1 in this photo.

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        • #5
          well my fuel issue seems to be a fuel pressure regulator , I holds vacuum that has been applied and locked in , even after regulator has had vacuum on it. So its not opening allowing any fuel to come through , that little bit does is whats forced through from the fuel pressure making it leak through. There is a scratch mark on the inside like somebody had an issue once before and tried to free it up. I guess ill see if I can find a cheap one at a parts store that will work looks almost identical besides the regulator vacuum being ontop instead of on the side. As long as it fits into the fuel rail then 50-55 bucks is almost half the cost of others.

          Fuel pump not sure of the pressure but has pressure on the line , and it cranks for a split second due to whats leaked past after a few seconds of pressure and no cranking. I'll feed something through to clean the injectors but my guess is they are good to go.

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          • #6
            for the sensor, hit a junk yard and find a early 90's mazda or ford car, chances are they're the same...i'd take the old one to compare. There's two sensors on the tranny, 5th gear/reverse and neutral saftey...I don't know which one is which.
            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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            • #7
              Why does 5th need a switch? Something to do with the ECU, and overdrive?
              1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
              2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
              1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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              • #8
                The five speeds have a neutral sensor and a reverse sensor. The Four speeds have a neutral sensor, a reverse sensor, and a 4th gear sensor (so the SHIFT light doesn't come on when in 4th gear). When I swapped my 4 speed for the 5 speed it was missing this sensor so I just left it disconnected. No more annoying SHIFT light! Yay!

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                • #9
                  I have a 5 speed , but so as long as its the neutral sensor than its not a big deal? Im assuming I can take out the sensor without tranny fluid coming out?

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                  • #10
                    Well came back from autozone , I got a deal on the only fuel pressure regulator they had in stock , I saw one on the website that looked like it would work for 50-55 instead of around 110 , and being I didnt want to pay shipping and wait a few days for a rockauto around 70-85 bucks cant really remember the number. They didnt have the 50-55 one but had another one that retailed for 95 that I got for 80 only difference in the fuel feed comes out toward the firewall instead of to the side to the fuel filter , the vacuum nipple is on the side pointing toward number 1 cylinder , and its 44psi instead of 38 like it shows in their info of the right regulator on their computer... So I figure based on calculator I used 120cc/min for stock injector from what ive found on a few searchs is stock is 11.4lb/hr flow , the 6psi operating boost in fuel pressure will yield me a flow of 12.2 IF the fuel injectors are designed to work well with fuel pressure increases. I know on the fiero forum I remember reading about a guy talking about fiero injectors flow relatively the same regardless of increased pressure.

                    so I figure with my head porting thats currently done , the increase if it carries over was worth it for the savings and being able to get it today and should be able to retrofit it. That the extra will either be relearned in the computer , and / or allow for a little more timing advance or atleast more of a safety. What do you guys think?

                    You dont think the extra fuel will become a problem do you , I dont see it being all that much more to wash out the cylinder walls , and how do you think the car will handle the extra fuel will the computer readjust overtime from o2 feedback as long as it doesnt give a code.

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                    • #11
                      Did you take engine out when you changed transmission ?
                      Sounds like crossed fuel lines ?
                      New build on the way .

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                      • #12
                        The line coming off of the fuel filter is the line thats going to the pressure regulator.

                        im starting to think that your right... but I thought it was suppose to be this way thinking that engine vacuum would open the regulator to allow it to flow more into the fuel rail. but at the same time if its the other way it will always have gas and the regulator will just open whenever pressure goes over operating so it remains more of a constant pressure vs varying based on engine vacuum. but at the same time whats the need of having a vacuum on the regulator if its setup so the metal nipple on the regulator is the return feed.
                        Last edited by Winfield1990; 06-10-2013, 10:32 AM.

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                        • #13
                          started right up after hooking it up the other way , looks like I had the regulator return line swapped with the fuel rail line.

                          now got to figure out about that sensor and any other problems that I find.

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                          • #14
                            You may have problems with running rich from high fuel pressure. The pressure regulator is designed to lower fuel pressure at times with high vacuum (closed throttle) and raise fuel pressure at heavy load (WOT). There is some tolerance for fuel pressure, but you may exceed the limit of the "learning" our little ECAs can handle. The ECA will be done learning after you show it all the loads and have driven about 10 miles. Over fueling is hard on the MPG and blows black smoke. You could adjust your VAF to compensate for too much fuel, but that is another bag of worms. Connect a DVOM to your O2 and watch the sweeps. See if they are trending high (.8V) or worse pegged. Anything less than .5V is lean and greater is rich. You want to see .7V swing to .2V to .8V to .1V ~~~~
                            '88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
                            '88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
                            '93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93

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                            • #15
                              the switch on the front is the reverse switch. The one you're talking about is the neutral switch.
                              -Bryant

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