Oil pan gasket replacement question:

[fastivaca]

Seeing as Prafeston and I are going to be replacing our oil pan gaskets I have a question.

Are these gaskets intended to be installed with or without any sealant? I know there's some called for around the oil pump and rear main seal retainer but what about the rest of it? I don't want to have to replace the gasket a third time so I want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks.

[Prafeston]

I thought I saw in another thread where you pan gasket install did not go well. That sucks to hear!

Someone had mentioned a few spots to put some dabs and a couple spots to smear it...I'm not sure why it wouldn't just be suggested to use a sealant on the entire gasket...

Here is a photo someone in your other thread posted on Facebook to illustrate some spots to put the sealant.
Green is a smear and yellow is a dab


And from the Festiva manual

[Zanzer]

I always install them dry other than the 4 spots where the pump and seal retainer meet the block.

[Zanzer]

I'm not sure why it wouldn't just be suggested to use a sealant on the entire gasket.

Hey, that engine and diagram look familiar You beat me to my Photobucket Rafe! :highly_amused:

It's not a good idea to use sealant on the entire gasket surface because it acts like a lubricant and can cause the gasket to squeeze out and break. This used to be a big problem with old cork pan gaskets. The times I do coat the whole gasket I generally snug up the pan just enough to remove any air between the 2 surfaces and then let it cure for a minimum of 2 hours (overnight, time permitting) before tightening to final torque. This gives the sealant a chance to semi harden and reduces the risk of squeezing the gasket out.


EDIT: If you're REALLY paranoid about pan gasket sealing. Run a bead of this around it instead of using a gasket. Better than any pan gasket I've ever used other than an o-ring. I use this in place of cork gaskets on old V8's and it takes a hammer and many flat head screw drivers to remove a pan after installation. The procedure is simple: Apply a bead, tighten to 2/3rd's, let cure for a few hours, apply full torque, hope you don't have to remove the pan anytime in the future

[fastivaca]

Thanks for all the input gents! I'm guessing now that the reason the pan gasket turned into a fountain so quickly is that I used a sealer on both faces of the gasket. I did that in order to keep the gasket in place while on my back under the car.

I have an idea for making the install job a little easier for those doing the job with the engine in and the car up on jackstands. I won't be getting to this until next week as we're heading away again for a few days. When I do get started I'll take some photos as I go along and if the idea works I'll post them up in a little how-to.

Sent from somewhere west of here via Tapatalk!

[Zanzer]

Ian, if you can find some studs with the correct threads, that sometimes helps hold the gasket in place. Install a 2 at each end and then a couple spaced down each side. Then push the gasket onto the studs and it will hold it somewhat in place while you instal the pan. If you want to get really fancy you can Dremel a slot in the end of the studs so you can easily remove them with a screwdriver and replace them with the factory pan bolts. Or you can put the gasket on the pan with a few bolts run through to help hold it to the pan (kind of like when you service an auto transmission). Hold the pan with one hand and start the bolts with the other leaving it semi loose. After it's being held in place by those bolts, start adding the remaining bolts and then tighten everything evenly until snug and then torque to spec at the same even rate.