Originally posted by Prafeston
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-Bryant
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1993 Ford Festiva L blue 170,000 miles
1990 Ford Festiva L Plus white 190,000 Auto, currently waiting to have another engine put in.
1995 Ford F150 XLT black 203,000 miles
2002 Honda CRV silver 180,000 miles
2003 Toyota Rav4 Sport black 94,000 miles
2008 Sym Rv250 dark grey 30,000 miles. My scooter.
1989 Ford Festiva LX black 233,000 miles. Sold to my better half's son.
Mike
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Originally posted by navdoc101 View PostMaybe a stupid question, but why didn't you just replace the relay?
So I decieded to get one for the Festy with a new relay.1993 Ford Festiva L blue 170,000 miles
1990 Ford Festiva L Plus white 190,000 Auto, currently waiting to have another engine put in.
1995 Ford F150 XLT black 203,000 miles
2002 Honda CRV silver 180,000 miles
2003 Toyota Rav4 Sport black 94,000 miles
2008 Sym Rv250 dark grey 30,000 miles. My scooter.
1989 Ford Festiva LX black 233,000 miles. Sold to my better half's son.
Mike
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It will work in 1 of 2 scenarios. 1) you figure out the original problem within the stock horn wiring/relays etc. IF you plan on using the stock wiring. or 2) you wire it directly to the horn wire coming down the steering column. It will be a neg switch wire small gauge Black iirc.-Bryant
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Originally posted by Gomez View PostIt will work in 1 of 2 scenarios. 1) you figure out the original problem within the stock horn wiring/relays etc. IF you plan on using the stock wiring. or 2) you wire it directly to the horn wire coming down the steering column. It will be a neg switch wire small gauge Black iirc.
I'm getting a click sound, at the relay I believe, every time I push on the horn. So I will try replacing the relay and using the stock wire to hook up the horn first. If that doesn't work then I will try #2 scenario.Last edited by muleskinner; 07-10-2013, 06:47 PM.1993 Ford Festiva L blue 170,000 miles
1990 Ford Festiva L Plus white 190,000 Auto, currently waiting to have another engine put in.
1995 Ford F150 XLT black 203,000 miles
2002 Honda CRV silver 180,000 miles
2003 Toyota Rav4 Sport black 94,000 miles
2008 Sym Rv250 dark grey 30,000 miles. My scooter.
1989 Ford Festiva LX black 233,000 miles. Sold to my better half's son.
Mike
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"Trumpet Horns" off a Caddy are the best horn. I like the 2-note from the '80s (got them on the Viberator, Festy will get a pair when I get around to it), but the 3-note they used in the '70s are louder if you can find 'em.
Also, buy yourself an inline fuse holder, put a 10 or 15 amp fuse in it and splice it to some long leads with old multimeter probes or alligator clips (or a clip on one end and a probe on the other) on either end. A good jumper wire is dollar-for-dollar the best tool you can get for basic electrical diagnosis.Last edited by Tommychu; 07-10-2013, 07:02 PM.
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Since I'm not honking the stock horns and custom horns at the same time, I just hung an extra horn relay beside the other one and made a little pigtail connector assembly that acts like a splice and can be removed any time. The two green/white power wires pigtail over to the custom horn relay. I added two wires. One to go to the custom horn and one to go to a grounded horn button. I found a set of mint Jubilee Gran Prix horns that I forgot I had. Beep beep! Toot toot! Can Yogi come out and play?Last edited by bravekozak; 07-10-2013, 09:18 PM.
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I thought I would post a picture so that members might better understand what I was discussing in my previous post. The goal is to have a quieter beep for my Viper door locks, instead of connecting to my loud dual trumpets. The wire from the relay will hook up to the negative trigger on the Viper.
H1/12 BROWN (-) Horn Honk OutputThis wire supplies a (-) 200 mA output that can be used to honk the vehicle horn. It outputs a singlepulse when locking the doors with the remote, and two pulses when unlocking with the remote. This wire will also output pulses for 30 seconds when the Panic Mode is activated. If the vehicle has a (+)horn circuit, an optional relay can be used to interface with the system.
Last edited by bravekozak; 07-17-2013, 01:12 PM.
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When those car alarms would go off in the city- sometimes from some truck just rumbling past the car- I'd say in my best Tommy Chong stoner voice: "hey man, I think somebody's stealing your car...."
anyway- Why all the obsession with NOISE- Don't know we live in an age where it's difficult to find ANY peace and quiet?
What's wrong with this one?
and save some money too
looks just like a stock Festiva horn-
personally I may buy an ah-oo-ga horn- had one on my first car -
great FUN!
a '49 willys wagon I bought for $220 in 1970Last edited by harpon; 08-24-2014, 11:08 PM.
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ya found it, just got frustrated by this seemingly simple circuit.
Continue to encounter L vs LX confusion ...has dual horns and is wired but upon further investigation the drivers Horn appears to be a add on.
pulled the relay & tested continuity on the GRN w/Red wire to the pass horn ..GOOD. to the Drvs horn ..no joy.
No matter Im replacing the horn(s) & is already mounted on the rail below the washer reservoir.
Is the horn circuit supposed to have constant power or key switched?
Im getting no relay trip with two different relays...the wiring at the horn pad is is neg. trigger grounding against...what?
Is the horn contact the spring loaded pin on the back of the wheel?Last edited by needragr; 04-07-2016, 10:53 PM.
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