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Major creak in steering (NOT CV joint, driveshaft or axle related)?

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  • Major creak in steering (NOT CV joint, driveshaft or axle related)?

    When the car is cold, it doesn't creak at all - but after driving for a short while (5-10 minutes is enough) I get a severe CREAK in the steering. It is especially pronounced when I'm sitting still (higher effort on the steering wheel) than when I'm driving along.

    Here is a video:



    This was filmed after driving for about 15 minutes (from a cold start).

    I don't know if it is the steering gearbox, or the tie rod ends, or something else...

    Thanks!
    White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter


  • #2
    You're coils are turning with the wheel

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    • #3
      Thanks Racks, how do I fix that? I replaced the struts a few years ago and the noise may have started then...
      Last edited by 95Compact; 07-08-2013, 07:03 PM.
      White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter

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      • #4
        hey mine does this too so thanks for the direction.
        -90 festiva - bp swap "relentless" (thanks matt) aspire swap, pacesetter, underdrive pulley
        -90 festiva - surf blue (undetermined destiny) wanna keep but wifey says noooooooo

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        • #5
          Upgrading to some strut mount bushings on the top of the front maybe.
          Or lubricating the top of the coils.
          Not sure if that will stop the squeaking but that's my .02c
          Running 40psi.....in my tires.



          http://aspire.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=611&st=0

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          • #6
            If the top hat doesn't seat right when the springs are installed it will cause this, i ran into it a couple weeks ago when I swapped Rio springs on festy struts and had to take the spring back off to fix it. Could also be a broken spring. Gonna have to take the strut off to find out i think.
            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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            • #7
              I have that same sound too, except its only when I'm getting out of the car after a long drive ..... then I found out it's my lower back making that noice and not my car, Thank goodness!!!!
              Last edited by muleskinner; 07-08-2013, 09:03 PM.
              1993 Ford Festiva L blue 170,000 miles
              1990 Ford Festiva L Plus white 190,000 Auto, currently waiting to have another engine put in.
              1995 Ford F150 XLT black 203,000 miles
              2002 Honda CRV silver 180,000 miles
              2003 Toyota Rav4 Sport black 94,000 miles
              2008 Sym Rv250 dark grey 30,000 miles. My scooter.
              1989 Ford Festiva LX black 233,000 miles. Sold to my better half's son.

              Mike

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              • #8
                Cool, thx guys. I'll take the drivers side wheel off and check it out, I'm pretty certain the noise is from that side.
                White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter

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                • #9
                  Probably won't be able to see a broken spring unless you take the strut out, and probably won't be able to tell if the top hat is properly seated on the strut mount unless you take it apart.
                  2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                  1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                  1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                  1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                  1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                  1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                  1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                  1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                  "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well, its the ball joint in the driver's side lower control arm.

                    I bought a replacement pair today at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $26ea. They came with new 'trailing link' bushings. Couldn't be happier, will install tomorrow along with new rotors and driver's side half-shaft =)
                    White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by zoom zoom View Post
                      If the top hat doesn't seat right when the springs are installed it will cause this, i ran into it a couple weeks ago when I swapped Rio springs on festy struts and had to take the spring back off to fix it. Could also be a broken spring. Gonna have to take the strut off to find out i think.
                      Wait, the Rio springs will work on the Festy struts?

                      So does that mean I can use the Rio strut mounts, with Festy struts, and springs?

                      I am just not happy with the Rio front struts, plus they make the car lopsided because there is something wrong with one of them, and the strut mounts on my 300k+ mile factory struts are shot.
                      Last edited by TorqueEffect; 07-17-2013, 11:20 PM.
                      1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                      2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                      1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                      • #12
                        I was going to say ball joints or tie rod end. My Element did that and I took a can of wd40 to every moving part one at a time to find the problem. But you already figured that out. Sorry, late.
                        -Bryant

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                        • #13
                          Ugh.. rotors.
                          White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter

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                          • #14
                            A slide hammer will pop those hubs right out. Just make sure you grease what you can of the bearings and DO NOT LOSE the center spacer ring between the two bearings.

                            Remove axle nut. Pop hub out with a slide hammer. CAREFULLY remove and set aside the spacer ring. Unbolt and swap the rotor. Grease up what you can of the bearings. CAREFULLY install the spacer ring back onto the hub. Insert the hub into the knuckle and start it with a few light taps with a hammer. Install axle nut and use it to press the hub back into the knuckle. Properly torque the nut and reassembly your brakes. WIN!

                            The discussion of strut mounts above encouraged me to make a write up for installing Kia Rio mounts. Check out that thread here: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...o-strut-mounts

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                            • #15
                              MasterTec, I appreciate the advice, but are you sure we're talking about the same thing? After I removed the steering knuckle (with strut), I laid the assy down and nailed the hub with a 3lb sledge (using a properly sized case-hardened socket as a 'punch'). I got no movement whatsoever and the sound of 'you could hit it 10x more and i still wont move' - PING! I also didn't see any center spacer between the two inner races of the bearing.

                              I had a machine shop press the hub out to get the new rotor on..
                              White '88, 280kmi, Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with Rocketman Carb Adapter

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