ignition module test?

[WmWatt]

Is there a way of testing the ignition control module (ICM) (inside the distributor) on an '89 carbureted Festiva?
It's imported by Standard in the USA, Blue Streak is their Canadian branch, part number LX627.

It was replaced in Feb/04 about 20k km ago. At that time it was taken to an auto parts store for testing. The store no longer has that test equipment (www.distester.com) and can now only test ICM’s on engines with OBDII diagnostics.

I have an auto repair guide published in 1981 which talks about testing transistorized points using a dwell meter. It says to disconnect the cold start relay and connect the dwell meter to the tachometer block and turn on the ignition (don’t crank engine?). Then it says if the dwell meter reads 0 the breaker points are dirty or not closing. If the dwell meter reads between 0 and 45 the “amplifier and primary circuit are both functioning as they should”. (I know by "primary circuit" they mean the low voltage part of the ignition system.) If the dwell meter reads 45 it could be "lack of power from ignition switch, breaker points not opening, or defective amplifier assembly”. Car starts and runs okay but cuts out under load when warm so I don’t know if that test would be much help. Where is the cold start relay or can I just connect to the -ive post on the coil and ground on the chassis like I do when I use it as a tachometer?

Any other suggestions for testing the ICM? Thanks.

[1988festiva]

I had a problem with my ICM also. Here is an entry to my thread.

My Festiva is now running. Turns out that the first replacement ICM was faulty. Because my Festiva is so old, there are no auto parts able to test the ICM. I used the instruction in this site as a guide to do my own testing. http://www.ehow.com/how_5485497_test...ol-module.html While my wife was cranking the engine I checked the negative side of the ICM with my multimeter. It was not switching on and off as a way of signaling the coil to release its charge to the distributor. I ordered a new ICM at this site for about $50 and free shipping. http://www.motorcityreman.com/ After installing the new ICM and spraying a little starter fluid into the carb it started on the first try and has run good for the last week. Thanks to all who contributed their ideas to help.

Hope his helps.

[TorqueEffect]

I will look into and see if our machine at autozone can test it. (Yes I work there now.)

It can probably test it, but they just don't have a connector to fit it to the Festiva's ICM

[drddan]

I always wondered if they could test, if the ICM was out of the disty?

I just keep 2 disty's around and if my car does a no fire, I switch them to see if it starts. Then I order a new ICM from ebay for the bad one .... $50!

[WmWatt]

There is, or was, an off car tester from www.distester.com. Back in 2004 I got one tested at Parts Source in Ottawa (owned by Canadian Tire Corp). Still have the printout. But this week the girl said they don't have the tester any more and use the OBDII connector on the car instead. Leaves out older cars.

Back then I bought a used distributor from a wrecker but the module failed the test. Wreckers tend not to give refunds on electronic parts which is understandable given the nature of electronics. So I have a spare distributor but it's no good.

I would love to know how to buy stuff off the Internet and to live in the USA when it come to buying car parts. I don't use a credit card and don't have Paypal. I looked at eBay and got a book out of the library on it but it's complicated and shipping to Canada doesn't seem to be worthwhile for sellers. Buying direct from supplier would be nice. Saw an Internet wholesaler who has them for $20. Local parts stores here seem to get them from distributor Blue Streak, the Canadian subsidiary of Standard in the USA. Still looking...

[TorqueEffect]

Ahhh so the Festiva's ICM is inside the Dizzy but is removable?

[drddan]

Ahhh so the Festiva's ICM is inside the Dizzy but is removable?

Only the carbed festy dizzy has the ICM inside the dizzy, and is removable.
Pull cap and rotor, pull off the 3 wires on the half moon shaped ICM, remove the 2 screws. Now the ICM can be removed .... but ....DO NOT PULL UP ON ICM!

The ICM comes out by pulling/sliding it out sideways.

[WmWatt]

^^^^ Google "Mitsubishi J207" for photos. You can't pull it straight up because there are two prongs which plug into the distributor.

[drddan]

ICM. $47 and change

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LX627-Igniti...#ht_122wt_1095

[WmWatt]

Thanks drddan.
Just signed up for eBay and PayPal and ordered the part.
First ever eBay purchase. Will see how it goes.

[WmWatt]

eBay order placed 13 July. Ignition module arrived 19 July. Toatal cost $76.89 Canadian.
To be installed It's does not have the Mitsubishi logo . Manufacturer unknow.

[drddan]

Keep us posted!

[WmWatt]

The module arrived 6 days after the order was placed on eBay.
Here are some photos of replacing the ignition module http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/ag...?sort=4&page=1

Unfortunately the new module did not calm the behaviour of the needle on the vacuum guage or tachometer.
Not sure what to do now. Put the old module back in to keep the new one from being damaged?
I'm wondering if paying a service centre to put the engine on a scope will provide useful information.
Could it narrow the missing down to a cylinder or ignition componenent?

[WmWatt]

1. The auto parts store was able to test an ignition module after all. I talked to an employee who's been there since it opened. You need the right cable number to connect the module to the tester. I got it by email from the manufacturer's technical support (www.distester.com). The cable is U7. We tested the old and new modules this morning. Both failed. I'm now trying to return or exchange the one I bought off eBay.

2. Here's a communication I had in 2004 in the old RecAutosTech newsgroup on the Usenet about the module, interesting stuff about the internals for those who might be interested. http://rec.autos.tech.narkive.com/Xj...ontrol-modules

PS thanks for the VOM testing procedure above. The connectors on the module are: A = computer, B = coil+ive, C = coil-ive, left plug = +ive pickup, right plug = -ive pickup
Pickups sense the position of the distrubutor shaft, B & C signal the coil to fire the spark plugs, A communicates with the computer but I don't know what the computer does with the information.

[Movin]

Something doesn't seem right, the modules that I have dealt with do not cause a miss, they are either go or no go. There are rare exceptions, I am talking about the 99 that cone through. The chance that you have 2 of the 1 out of a hundred is almost impossible, even considering the luck some of us have lol.

Have you used a spark tester on each spark plug wire? Some bad wires will spark all day if you test them by holding them near a metal surface. In this case it is important to have a calibrated distance for each wire to spark while the engine is idling. While the spark tester is sparking use a 12 volt test light to rub all over the wire looking for pin holes that could leak out the spark while under load. Look closely anywhere the wire may have rubbed on metal like the valve cover, a bracket ect. If all wires fail the tester look for a weak disty cap or rotor or coil.