Popping in steering on bumps

[frankenfester]

First let me explain What's been done in recent So it may help with a diagnosis if need be.
New lca both sides
New inner And outer tie rods
New calipers
New knuckles, hubs, bearings And spacers
New rotors
New brake pads
New struts (Gabriel ) And mounts And all
New Cv axles (less than 4 months since replaced
New wheels 14" Estrella
New tires 165/55 federal formoza
Aftermarket Grant steering wheel with adapter kit
New atf fluid

The problem.
When I'm traveling at slower speeds And turning (or not turning) there is a popping sound in the steering wheel.
When slowing from 4th gear (45-60mph) to third gear (30-45mph) the car feels as if the front end moves forward slightly (Maybe It's always done that or I'm being critical because of the popping in the steering.
When I turn corners to the right at speeds over 25mph the bearings seem to have a (grinding?) noise.
I got under the car And tightened the rack mounting bolts, which weren't loose at all. Tightened the transmission mount And crossmember bolts, also not loose. Tightened the u-joint bolts of the steering rack (under the dash) that were also not loose.
While I was under the vehicle tightening things up, I noticed some rust where the radiator mounts are, But ins't part of the structure itself, only where the Rad mounts are.

Could someone help? I'm at a loss, And Maybe It's my imagination, But since I've been driving without music blaring as of late, I've noticed that sound And (even though I probably did before) can feel it in the steering wheel. Any help would be appreciated as I've ran through the Ford service manual And found nothing for a diagnosis. Could it be the steering rack itself? I'm lost

-James

[Ape]

LCA = Lower control arms I guess so it most likely wouldnt be them as they would of been my first guess. Second are the spindle nuts tightened properly? Get the car off the ground and rock the wheel back and forth to check for play.

[frankenfester]

LCA = Lower control arms I guess so it most likely wouldnt be them as they would of been my first guess. Second are the spindle nuts tightened properly? Get the car off the ground and rock the wheel back and forth to check for play.

They were torqued to 183lbs as specified in the manual. When I had it off the ground I checked for that play being that the bearings were new, And there was none

-James

[Potta]

They were torqued to 183lbs as specified in the manual. When I had it off the ground I checked for that play being that the bearings were new, And there was none

-James

You should always recheck the nuts after fitting new wheel bearings as they may feel as if they have seated but they will 99% of the time need to be re-tensioned as they seat correctly after going for a small
Drive.

[frankenfester]

You should always recheck the nuts after fitting new wheel bearings as they may feel as if they have seated but they will 99% of the time need to be re-tensioned as they seat correctly after going for a small
Drive.

I did that after about 25 miles of driving.

Would that have anything to do with popping in the steering?

-James

[sketchman]

Check the column bolts under the plastic cover on the bottom? Can you move the column/wheel assembly any at all, or is it tight?

Mine was loose and made noise, and I found the wheel end of the column held in by one loosely torqued bolt. Fixed it for me.

[frankenfester]

Check the column bolts under the plastic cover on the bottom? Can you move the column/wheel assembly any at all, or is it tight?

Mine was loose and made noise, and I found the wheel end of the column held in by one loosely torqued bolt. Fixed it for me.

There is some up And down play vertically in the column, But with extreme force.

-James

[sketchman]

Is it play or just flexing? Mine was very noticeable, and could be slid from side to side a tiny bit. It would stay wherever you moved it.

I wonder if it could be play in the gears in the rack. You could stand outside of the car and reach in to wiggle the wheel and see if the movement of the wheel matches the movement of the tire. I found play in a rubber coupler on another vehicle that way. Just another idea.

[Ape]

I did that after about 25 miles of driving.

Would that have anything to do with popping in the steering?

-James

Excesive play in your wheels will cause them to "rattle" on the spindle's causing steering wheel to shake or pop.

I would follow with what Sketchman is saying but my only thing is if the feeling of the steering wheel changes with speed and turning then its farther down the line than the column itself.


Sketchman,
I wonder if it could be play in the gears in the rack. You could stand outside of the car and reach in to wiggle the wheel and see if the movement of the wheel matches the movement of the tire. I found play in a rubber coupler on another vehicle that way. Just another idea.

Thought I read that he replaced it but re-read and guess not! I'm gonna have to go with the rack. Might be everything else is tight now so its showing its flaws?

[Gomez]

My ball joint to knuckle cinch bolt was loose on both sides of the car just after installing new ones arms maybe 100 miles earlier. It was allowing the ball joint to travel up/down by the amount of slop in the cinch bolt design (probably 1/4" or so). I tightened them up and the popping noise was gone. Not sure about the grinding though.

[frankenfester]

My ball joint to knuckle cinch bolt was loose on both sides of the car just after installing new ones arms maybe 100 miles earlier. It was allowing the ball joint to travel up/down by the amount of slop in the cinch bolt design (probably 1/4" or so). I tightened them up and the popping noise was gone. Not sure about the grinding though.

I'm gonna pop the wheels off and tighten everything back up as It's been driving about 399miles since everything was new.

That bearing grinding happened before the bearing And hub was replaced But was due to no spacer. Got new hubs with proper spacers on each And still have this problem

-James