1988 l Carbby problems!!!!!!!

[vinny_perez]

Having carb problems and im sick and tired of them lol

Im trying to get a Weber Carb but i dont know wich one would be great for my car i want more horse power!

I want to get a weber carb that fits fine i dont want to make adapter plates i dont got time for that
I just want to buy a weber carb and put it on! Just like that

Help me guys please im a daily festy driver

[Banana Bonanza]

As of current time, nobody makes an idiot proof kit to put a Weber onto a Festy in the fifteen minutes you want to allow for the process.

If you get a new genuine DGV or DFV Weber (or used one off car with different size engine), it will have to be jetted correctly for your engine. This is an art in itself though some on here have posted the jets they use and thats good place to start. Then you need an adapter. I made my own so not absolutely sure the Redline Weber kit I am going to suggest is perfect fit...., but think Weber adapter part number 99004.673 will work (do a google or look on ebay). Its for a 1981 Mazda GLC Mizer front wheel drive. Bottom plate that bolts to manifold looks like Festy manifold bolt pattern to me. If not identical, its darn close.

Then you will need a choke. You will probably go with whatever comes with your carburetor. Can be manual choke which, since you like ultimate convenience, you probably wont like. But its simple to install, just get a choke cable and run it from dash to the carburetor. Can be hot water choke, and yep you get to splice into heater hose. Or electric choke that has heating element, you connect it to 12V source. Last is most common and least adjustable. My carb had water choke and I used that.

Then you will need an air cleaner that fits your carb. You can buy the little open square ones made for Weber DGV or make your own or there are adapters that allow you to use something like a 10 inch open air cleaner made for an american 2bbl or 4bbl V8. I just made my own air cleaner.

And you will need to make a bracket to hold stock Festy throttle cable in correct position to connect to throttle lever and make end adapt to the Weber throttle arm. Or you will need to buy a universal cable and adapt it to both carb and your gas pedal. Six of one, half dozen of the other as to which is easier. I made a simple holder for existing cable out of bit sheetmetal that I bolted to top of valve cover, if you look there are convenient threaded bolt holes in the top of the valve cover.

What I am saying there is not bolt on, do it in half hour method. Its a system that YOU have to collect the various parts and make them all work together and actually think things through for yourself. Yes some things require both TIME and EFFORT. Sorry just way world is. ALWAYS works out that life is a trade off of either time or money and usually requires both. The easy peasy "cant be bothered" world you want is why car dealers sell on "easy monthly payment plan..." You specialize in delivering pizza 24/7 or whatever, then hand over your earnings to people that do spend time and effort making things happen for you.

And none of this Weber stuff suddenly gives you twice the horsepower of the stock system. Matter of fact if you oversize your carb, put on some really aggressive cam, and monster sized exhaust, all you end up doing is making car miserable to drive at lower rpm speeds which is most of time for a daily driver. Though you will get more power with big carb at super high rpms if your head and exhaust can flow well enough but that really is only practical if the car is dedicated race car, only driven on track. The only advantage of the Weber carb is that its simpler. If its sized and set up correctly, you get the same mileage and performance, just without the bushel basket of black spaghetti and electronic gizmoes.

One end run around the jetting issue is to hunt down a cheap rebuilt carb from a early 80s Ford Escort with 1.6L engine. They do come up cheap on ebay though there are some very over priced ones too. They were jetted at factory to run rather lean on the 1.6L escort so are very close to perfect for the 1.3L Festy. Thing is they have shorter bolt pattern, so even if that Weber carb adapter I mention works for most Weber downdraft carbs, the Escort carb wont bolt to it out of box. Now some of Escort carbs has slightly longer base so potentionally could have couple holes drilled further out (very carefully) so they will bolt on standard Weber bolt pattern adapter. Not sure if bore holes of carb would then match the bore holes in the adapter/manifold. You would need to check that. The devil is always in the details.

[TominMO]

Agree with above except that in my experiences with Webers, I got better gas mileage and performance, with whatever jets it came with. This was on a carbed 1987 Subaru OHC 1.8. Removing all the emissions junk and installing a simple, well-designed carb did that.

Webers tend to come from the factory with a standard jetting setup that generally works well; then the individual can further fine-tune it for even better performance or MPGs.

[Banana Bonanza]

Oh just noticed original poster lives in California. You have to deal with whole lot more crap. California has heavy handed yearly emissions inspection and they dont like anything different from stock box original. If it looks non-original, they wont even bother testing it, it can fail just from visual inspection. The only way to avoid the pollution police in CA is to drive a pre-pollution era car with original era engine.

Most likely worth just rebuilding stock Festy carb yourself (the factory rebuilt ones are $$$$), but kit is only like $25. Its not pleasant but if you are careful and take lots pics of everything as you remove stuff step by step, it can successfully be done. You especially want to keep track of all the miles of vacuum tubing as its going to be nightmare to reconnect it without documentation, you wont remember it in your head.

The stock carb when everything is working isnt that bad. But the hassles of just taking stock carb off Festy and then reinstalling it makes construction of a homemade carb adapter look not so bad.... LOL

[Banana Bonanza]

Agree with above except that in my experiences with Webers, I got better gas mileage and performance, with whatever jets it came with. This was on a carbed 1987 Subaru OHC 1.8. Removing all the emissions junk and installing a simple, well-designed carb did that.

Webers tend to come from the factory with a standard jetting setup that generally works well; then the individual can further fine-tune it for even better performance or MPGs.

There is lot difference in a carb jetted for a 2.8L engine and a 1.3L engine. thats pretty much size range of engines that used Weber (or Weber clones) as OEM stock back in day though some now jet them to use on bigger engines like older American straight sixes. There is wiggle room with jet sizing, but if you get black smoke or bogging, it aint setup right. My guess new aftermarket generic DGV will be jetted for around 2.0L engine and even then on rich side so some idiot doesnt burn a hole in piston. If its rich for a 2.0L, then thats way too rich for a 1.3L. If you get used Weber, who knows what its jetted for or if its jetted correctly for engine it was used on..... At least with Webers its still easy to get an assortment of new jets. Holley too, though same cant be said for very many other carbs.

By way not fair to compare performance of a faulty OEM carb needing attention to a new Weber. I drove my Festy some time with OEM carb working fine and car ran fine. The Weber didnt offer any improvements over properly functioning OEM carb. Now it was big improvement over an OEM carb needing a rebuild. And for sure easier not to deal with complexities of electronic feedback carb.

Oh and one thing if you get used Weber, rebuild it and make sure to replace the power valve (called economizer valve by some). Its not included in some of the Redline rebuild kits and it really needs replacing when you rebuild a Weber. When faulty, it will cause poor mileage (leaks causing carb to run rich) and eventually inability of carb to even idle.

Dont get me wrong, I like Weber carbs, its high quality and very adaptable/adjustable product. But its not a miracle in a box. I've had OEM carbs of various makes that work fine for daily driver. The troubles came when manufacturers started trying to force carb to run super lean or other such non-sense. Or to make them so complicated or out of such poor materials, that nobody can restore one properly. Of course a properly jetted carb with a properly advanced distributor is going to run much better and get better mileage than one tweaked for arbitrary pollution mandates.

[TominMO]

1. My guess new aftermarket generic DGV will be jetted for around 2.0L engine and even then on rich side so some idiot doesnt burn a hole in piston. If its rich for a 2.0L, then thats way too rich for a 1.3L. If you get used Weber, who knows what its jetted for or if its jetted correctly for engine it was used on..... At least with Webers its still easy to get an assortment of new jets. Holley too, though same cant be said for very many other carbs.

2. By way not fair to compare performance of a faulty OEM carb needing attention to a new Weber. I drove my Festy some time with OEM carb working fine and car ran fine. The Weber didnt offer any improvements over properly functioning OEM carb. Now it was big improvement over an OEM carb needing a rebuild. And for sure easier not to deal with complexities of electronic feedback carb.

3. Oh and one thing if you get used Weber, rebuild it and make sure to replace the power valve (called economizer valve by some). Its not included in some of the Redline rebuild kits and it really needs replacing when you rebuild a Weber. When faulty, it will cause poor mileage (leaks causing carb to run rich) and eventually inability of carb to even idle.

4. Dont get me wrong, I like Weber carbs, its high quality and very adaptable/adjustable product. But its not a miracle in a box. I've had OEM carbs of various makes that work fine for daily driver. The troubles came when manufacturers started trying to force carb to run super lean or other such non-sense. Or to make them so complicated or out of such poor materials, that nobody can restore one properly. Of course a properly jetted carb with a properly advanced distributor is going to run much better and get better mileage than one tweaked for arbitrary pollution mandates.

1. Sounds right. I know they don't jet them specifically for the vehicle, more like for the displacement.
2. My Sube was runnig fine on its OEM carb when i replaced it with the Weber. About a 10% MPG and HP (via butt-dyno) improvement.
3. Good tip.
4. Yup.

[fasteddie]

yeah i did the stock CARB-SWAP this spring and it was oh, lets say, an experience. what vacuum lines?

[ted88]

any diagrams or posts of what to do with all the extra hose after a Weber swap? my stock is giving me a headache and the misses just gave me permission to get a Weber. and try to get one of those adapters from Rocketman.

[Banana Bonanza]

There is only one vacuum port on an aftermarket Weber. It goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Your PCV valve and brake booster connects to vacuum port on intake. You plug any other vacuum ports on the intake manifold as you dont want vacuum leaks. Ignore or remove any electronic gizmos with both vacuum and electrical connections.

[Festy46]

If you get a Weber, make sure it's the "DG" model and not the "DF". The "DF" throttle linkage works backwards from what you want.

[ted88]

There is only one vacuum port on an aftermarket Weber. It goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Your PCV valve and brake booster connects to vacuum port on intake. You plug any other vacuum ports on the intake manifold as you dont want vacuum leaks. Ignore or remove any electronic gizmos with both vacuum and electrical connections.

thank you.

[ted88]

If you get a Weber, make sure it's the "DG" model and not the "DF". The "DF" throttle linkage works backwards from what you want.

yea im looking at the 32/36 DGEV found one brand new fer $199.

[bhazard]

Get the kit for the samurai for like $30 more. Its properly jetted for a 1.3L engine. It also comes with an air cleaner and additional hardware.

I got the carb only for $199 like you're looking at and its pig rich cause its over jetted. Wish I knew about the samurai kit when I got mine.

[ted88]

Get the kit for the samurai for like $30 more. Its properly jetted for a 1.3L engine. It also comes with an air cleaner and additional hardware.

I got the carb only for $199 like you're looking at and its pig rich cause its over jetted. Wish I knew about the samurai kit when I got mine.

alright thanks. is it the WK600 weber kit?

[Spike]

This?:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-WEBER-32-36-DGAV-W-CHOKE-CARB-CARBURETOR-KIT-SUZUKI-SAMURAI-K601-WK601W-/151039936924?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASuzuki%7CModel%3ASamurai&hash=item232aae899c&vxp=mtr

Is there a write-up from anyone that used this specific carb? First on the agenda for the '89 is a Weber.. literally had carb problems before we got it home. :thumbs_down:

I haven't dealt with carbs much at all, so this will be an experience..

-Joe