88 Festiva L' Stalling under load

[Jblair]

Hey,
My wife has a 88Festiva with 116k on it. It sat for awhile but we have been driving it now for about 6months. It has ran great. Recently while driving at cruise speeds it started to bog and stall. I sprayed carb cleaner, put in premium fuel and cleaner in tank, changed plugs and fuel filter. The problem has not improved. She drives mostly in town so I decided to drive it on the freeway 130miles round trip. It did ok but every now and then would randomly start stalling, bucking, die. I noticed it on very small inclines and at small changes in the throttle. I thought fuel pump was cutting out, so I ran a few test to check it, fuel is getting to the carb consistantly. Tried to drive it around town today, made it around the block fine, tried to drive it to the parts store, then less then a block away, continues stalling. Seems like, runs on fuel in carb bowl, then runs out. Just my experience from my old Honda tho. Also, this problem is real inconsistant, could it be electrical? I've read similar problems on other forum sights but I want to hear from your true festiva lovers, I've come to like this little car and want to do a few things to it, but first, how to make it run right now. Thank you.

Portland, OR - JEREMY

[95Compact]

May be something in the tank blocking the pickup occassionally - I think that what happens in my '88.

When it occurs, I remove the fuel line from the filter in the engine bay and blow out the line from the tank with compressed air (like 15psi).

I should pull the tank and clean it out, but I'm too lazy.

Maybe someone else has a better diagnosis, lots of good Festiva techs here!

[WmWatt]

It could be electrical. When the ignition control module starts to go one symptom is stalling usually after it warms up. First I'd clean the spark plugs and wires and check for good connections. Aslo try searching the rest of the Internet for stalling under load. Lots of replies out there.

[drddan]

Jeremy, what you descibe sounds like a problem that is starting to show up a lot on the carb festy's.
Old deteriating soft fuel lines
Please read thread posts#5, #8, and #13 on this thread. Check the fuel line described in it. It could be your problem.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...-now-won-t-run

[rmoltis]

Could be bad gasoline?
After sitting for so long
Or possibly water in the tank.

Does it happen when the tank is closer to empty?
Or when driving around corners.
If there's water in there it would stay on the bottom
and the fuel would remain on top.

I've read a few threads where they exhibit similar symptoms.
They drain the fuel tank and fill with new
And everything is better.

Possibly could be this?
Just an idea.

[bob^3]

Hm mine started doing this some time back as well. It bogs at WOT but not partial throttle. I still haven't found the cause. In4info.

'88 with 215k so far.

Now with 100% more autocorrect fail!

[Jblair]

I'm going to check into the fuel line issue, that is a simple solution to a pain of a problem if that is it. I'm also curious when the ignition is mentioned because I had the same suspicion. This problem is so intermitent that it is driving me crazy. It idles just fine, I'm talking perfect idle. But, it is a random cut out and it has gotten worse. I've had it parked this whole week while I ponder and research.

[Jblair]

BTW I replaced the Fuel filter, replaced the spark plugs, filled with premium gas, sprayed carb cleaner, put cleaner in the tank. I know its fuel or spark, the mystery is witch and there is no pattern or real symptom to know for sure. Thank you Festy people.

[Chobobulous]

I remember reading about a hose that connected to the fuel filter that would collapse in on itself when too much vacuum was applied ie stepping on the gas pedal. Maybe you can check that.

[WmWatt]

Jblair: I'm retired and don't depend on the car so it's been parked for two weeks while I try to isloate the same problem. I replaced the ignition module bit it's an unbranded one off the Internet instead of the original Mistusishi J207. In the old days a mechanic would use an osilloscpoe to diagnose engine problems but they seem to have discareded them when OBDI and OBDII diagnostics were introduced. Some EFI Festivas are OBDI compliant.

A few other things you could check are
1. idle air control valve (small cylindrical valve) on the front of the pulse air box on the side of the air cleaner housing, pulse air box is the thing with the two big hoses coming out of it. Undo the two screws, pull it out, and make sure it's clean and moving in and out freely. If not clean. A mechanic tells me they were a problem on Fords and Mazdas if they got dirty.
2. air flow motor in the air intake tube on the air cleaner. It's a round thing with a small hose coming out of it. It lets warm air in from the exhaust below until the engine warms up then opens to let cool air in from the atmoshere. To see if it opens remove the flexible duct and test it with a finger. You have to unbolt the air cleaner housing and some hoses to get at it.
3. Generally check the vacuum hoses for leaks - loose connections, crack, or holes. They are a b*tch to get at but I checked what I could reach. You can also mist the hoses with a plant mister (engine running) to see if the engine stalls which indicated a leak, or spray something else (starter fluid?, I can't remember) and listen for change in engine speed. Misting did not cause any discernable difference on my car but I did notice a puddle of water under the exhast pipe at the back of the car. I'm not sure what to make of that.

Good luck.

[jason_]

but I did notice a puddle of water under the exhast pipe at the back of the car. I'm not sure what to make of that.

Fun science fact #836....

Moisture doesn't burn.

Sucked with intake, heated with combustion, condensates down exhaust pipe which acts as a huge cooler, and collects in muffler, eventually dribbling/spitting out pipe. Most aftermarket mufflers have a weep hole to not hold moisture for people that drive 1 mile to work everyday.


Only way to 'burn' water is to upset the last electron field with electricity (electrolysis) and split the 2 hydrogen molecules and oxygen molecule, then introduce heat to ignite the mixture, the now fuel and oxidizer, which burns, and the result is water vapor, and end back to square one.





Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[getnpsi]

All the above plus bypassing your fuel filter with hose to see if it runs the same under load. Not enough timing under load shouldn't kill an engine especially if its a stick and you back out of throttle but if it's timing and fuel that would do it. Under light load and higher RPM it is ok, or same load different RPM? I know that is a seat of the pants guess but if you drive the same car all the time you can feel when something is different.

I suggest because you are not in California you take advantage and upgrade to the weber setup(s) others have. That way you eliminate a lot of variables you could be fighting here, and can replace all fuel lines with new ones for peace of mind.

[drddan]

I remember reading about a hose that connected to the fuel filter that would collapse in on itself when too much vacuum was applied ie stepping on the gas pedal. Maybe you can check that.

Yes. MY post #4 of this thread! Click link!

[Chobobulous]

Yes. MY post #4 of this thread! Click link!

Lol thanks! I tried searching but couldn't find it.

[WmWatt]

I did 1,2,3 in post above on my carbed Festiva this morning. Before starting it was running with random small drop in vacuum, had originally been cutting out when warm. 1&2 checked out okay. Had checked hoses from above yesterday with no improvement so jacked up front end and put on stands to insepct hoses from below. Many hoses connect to a metal conduit which was rusty so I sprayed it with WD-40. Sprayed some rusted nuts and bolts while under there. Let car back down. There was some discolouration inside the carburettor so removed that with spray carb cleaner, then removed air filtre housing and sprayed throttle and choke linkages with carb cleaner too. Started car and it idled too fast as if choke was on. Tapped accellerator a few times to take choke off but still fast idle. Drove around neighbourhood to warm up engine a bit but still idling too fast. Reving engine did not bring down fast idle. Assume it has something to do with my pushing and pulling on vacuum hoses. When the engine was shut off it bucked like really bad pre-ignition. Started engine again and now idling too slow and threatening to stall. Leads me to believe problem is in vacuum hoses. I should probably go over the hoses again from below, mabye this time with engine running. May not be an electrical issue.