My Baby Will Not Start

[Icababe]

They stopped the compression test when the compression I do have was backing back up through the radiator. So it's the head and/or gasket, or cracked cylinder (less likely on the third, but a possibility).

The compression was good enough to shoot coolant about ten feet in the air with the radiator cap off.

[scitzz]

They stopped the compression test when the compression I do have was backing back up through the radiator. So it's the head and/or gasket, or cracked cylinder (less likely on the third, but a possibility).

The compression was good enough to shoot coolant about ten feet in the air with the radiator cap off.

You want the cap on, and the numbers. Who stopped the test? You weren't doing it?

Running around outside the asylum again with my tappy talky appy

[Movin]

I could take a pic of the radiator that had 140 psi hit it with the cap on lol !

[drddan]

I could take a pic of the radiator that had 140 psi hit it with the cap on lol !

Yes, a pic! LOL

[Flyin4stroke]

MOAR PICTARS!

[Icababe]

I love those decals on your car!

They came on the car. My kids like them. They say it makes the car cool.

[Icababe]

Question: Is there a video or instruction set for replacing the cylinder head and gasket hidden in here? I'm going to have to open up the engine for the gasket anyway so I might as well replace the head while I'm at it.

[seniorgreenpants]

"Compression" does not go through the radiator. Compression builds in the cylinder under the....compression stroke of the four stroke engine cycle. The air that is coming out of the radiator is due to a gap between the engine block and head, Due to one of the three items you stated in a Previous Post.

1: Head cracked/ warped
2: Head gasket cracked
3: Block cracked or warped

I havent found a video on the repair. But before replacing the head take it to a machine shop and get it tested for cracks and warps. See if it can be saved, it would be much cheaper to do that than to replace the head.

Gaskets=Cheap

Head is not as cheap, you might be better off getting a lower mileage engine before rebuilding the top end, not knowing whats going on down in the block

All above stated is just my 2 cents

[Icababe]

Thanks Senior. I was looking for instructions for removing the head on a Festiva. I understand the basics which is why I was looking. It's too easy to screw up something else while screwing up what you're doing. I can build a PC in a few minutes, and do reasonably well with older cars. Put a fuel injector and twenty sensors on it, and I need major help. For example: Do I have to remove the throttle-body or injection systems to get the head out? Is there a specific order to removing the bolts on the head like when you put it back on? It was recommended that I torque the bolts back down to 75lbs instead of 70 when I put the new gasket on - is that correct? Besides the head, head gasket, valve cover gasket and torque wrench, what else will I need?

I could order the head and gaskets today for about two hundred, but don't know enough to trust the outcome.

[htchbck]

^^ Sounds like you already know what you are doing pretty much. The head can be removed with the intake and exhaust still attached. If you are replacing the head I'd recommend taking the exhaust manifold loose from the head, then pulling the head with the intake still on it. Some of the bolts on the intake are much easier to get to with the head out of the car. As for sensors, everything on the intake can be left together and plugged in, just unhook the big round plug at the passenger side of the head. There is only one sensor actually in the head itself that you will need to swap over the new (used?) head if it doesn't come with one. Other than that, a heater hose and a small bypass hose on the front of the head, there isn't much that needs to be removed or take apart to get the head off. Other than the timing belt of course.