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Holy stuck axle nut batman!

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  • Holy stuck axle nut batman!

    Anyone have a trick for getting that nut off? Did it in the manor that the Haynes manual says, which is to put a straight bar (i used my jacks handle) between to lug nuts while it on a jack stand, and use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

    I bent the jacks handle. A lot.


    I then put the wheel back on the ground, and was turning the tire against the asphalt rather than making any progress.

    I would say the problem isnt that I dont have enough leverage, but that the bolt it too damn stuck.

    I dont want to destroy the axle. Im not planning to replace that, but I need to replace the axle seal. An ideas?

    On an unrealated note, would it be bad to use Teflon tape on the trans drain plug. I cant get it to stop leaking there either.
    '97 Aspire

  • #2
    They are tough sometimes. I use an impact wrench.
    Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
    '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
    '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

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    • #3
      Also one side is reverse thread
      89 LX (461xxx miles original motor and trans, retired)
      90 L (restoration in progress)
      91 L (saved from abusive owner lol)
      92 L (DD)
      88 (model unknown, rust free, possible project)
      88-89 (parts car. practically picked to the bone)
      93 GL (parts car)

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mystro View Post
        Also one side is reverse thread
        on the rear.
        '89L 110k mi. BP/G swapped
        '90LX 68k mi. wrecked 12/14 RIP
        '90 F250 4X4 108K mi.
        '13 Kia Rio 5 LX 70k mi.
        '18 Kia Soul 40k mi. Daily
        '64 Studebaker Gran Turismo Hawk
        '66 International Harvester pickup

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        • #5
          Passenger rear is reverse thread. Can't you just replace the copper washer?
          Last edited by Flyin4stroke; 08-02-2013, 10:45 PM.
          1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

          1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

          1996 Ford F-150

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          • #6
            Just to be clear, this is the passenger side front. Its not revers threads is it?
            '97 Aspire

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            • #7
              No.

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              • #8
                Penetrating oil or WD-40, several applications. I've also seen spray freon or something which freezes the nut and is supposed to break the rust or dirt or whatever's holding things up free. Use a rocking motion to break the nut free. Put your whole weight on the pipe extension. Get another person to add his or her strength and weight. If you want to be adventureous jam the pipe extension on the garage floor, start up the engine, and rock the car in the forward direction (passenger side). Good luck.
                Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                • #9
                  I use 2 breaker bars. One stuck between 2 lug bolts, to keep the wheel from turning, and the other with a big pipe to break the nut loose. It is torque'd TIGHT at install to 140 lbs or more and can be tough to get off.

                  Of course this is IF I didnt have an impact to do it with now! :razz:
                  Last edited by drddan; 08-02-2013, 11:38 PM.
                  Dan




                  Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

                  Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

                  I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

                  R.I.P.
                  Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
                  Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
                  Silver 1988 Festiva L

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                  • #10
                    My breaker bar was 9ft and it still took a couple tries.

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                    • #11
                      I had to use electric impact, my air compressor cant keep going and going. IF you cannot access impact one way I suggest is heavy pb blaster soak, then tap tap tap it to the RIGHT then have at it back to the left, that seems to work for me all types of fasteners. It's not just on there super tight like stand on a breaker bar but you need to swift blows to break crud at the same time.
                      1993 GL 5 speed

                      It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

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                      • #12
                        Impact wrench on the front if it is that stuck, air or electric
                        Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
                        Icetiva-3-race-car-build
                        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299

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                        • #13
                          I use a good quality breaker bar and a four foot long pipe. Have someone sit in the car holding down the brake pedal while you use the "cheater pipe" and breaker bar

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                          • #14
                            Impact. End of story. By an electric one at harbor freight to save money if needed.

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                            • #15
                              You may have to resort to high heat to get this thing loose or cut a slot in it hoping that it breaks the tension. Asking about teflon tape for oil drains, that's what I have been doing for 20 years. Make sure to remove the old stuff every time you do an oil change. The tape works great but does get soft.

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